We were up at silly o' clock in our hotel in San José for our 2½-hour drive to Tortuguero, a 312-square-kilometre (194-sw.-mile) national park on the country´s Caribbean coast, with a variety of ecosystems, including rainforest, mangrove forest, swamps, beaches, and lagoons. We just had time for a coffee and some pastries for breakfast, but were promised a much more substantial second breakfast en route. In the town of Guápiles, we stopped for our first substantial meal in Costa Rica; scrambl