Here's my dilemma: I often write about food. I'm supposed to be (and occasionally am) discerning beyond the pale of ordinary mortals — you know, the kind who relish fast food and chain restaurants. I also majored in Chinese. I'm supposed to know the top Zhongguo joints in a 10-mile radius, no matter where I am. Then why, I do wonder, am I so fascinated with Pei Wei, the casual cousin of P.F. Chang's, two chains spreading the length and breadth of our land like crazed straw mushrooms?
Flavor, I
