You’ve seen the postcards. The white marble of the Taj Mahal at dawn. The pink walls of Jaipur. The red sandstone of Delhi’s forts. It’s the "Greatest Hits" album of Indian travel. But after a few days of looking at monuments, you might find yourself wondering: Where is the soul?
Don't get me wrong. The history is incredible. The architecture is mind blowing. But palaces and forts are where kings used to live. If you want to see where the heart of the country actually beats today, you have to go







