Though yet another of China's megalopolises, Xi’an (pop. 13.6 million), on an inland plain in the country's northwest, is one of the Middle Kingdom’s oldest cities (dating back some 3,000 years, as well as one of its four great ancient capitals, under a dozen dynasties and 73 emperors). It was also the end of the legendary Silk Road trade route, and in many ways, Han Chinese civilisation was forged here in the city once known as Chang’an.
Time has erased much of this past glo
