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Panda Bear Keeper for a Day in Chengdu, China

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As we were driving to the Chengdu Research Base for Giant Panda Breeding (sic) north of the city of Chengdu, I noticed that the traffic lights had four lights rather than the usual three red, yellow and green ones. The fourth light was a bicycle light. Not that we saw many bicycles; in Chengdu, they clearly have been replaced by electric mopeds and scooters.

I asked Ben, our guide, what he'd had for breakfast: baozi (large dumplings) and soybean milk, he replied. Whenever he speaks, he reminds

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