You won't find the quirky side of Baltimore at Fort McHenry (1793), which recently celebrated the 200th anniversary of Francis Scott Key's "Star Spangled Banner". You might not find it at the Baltimore Museum of Art, the National Aquarium, or in neighborhoods like the Inner Harbor, either, where glittering condos and fab restaurants spring up every day. But don't you worry: The Divine [sic] spirit of Hairspray's John Waters, Edgar Allen Poe, and other famously eccentric and offbeat Baltimoreans