Gelato. For some, it's an obsession. For me, the word "cult" comes to mind. Now, before you go thinking I'm nuttier than pistachio, let me explain. It all started with my first trip to Italy back in 1987, where I learned that all I thought I knew about ice cream had been a lie. I still remember the moment of epiphany: standing at dusk outside a small gelateria artigianale in the town of Mariano Comense north of Milan, near Lake Como, with a local friend who subsequently gave up the pleasures of
