You know exactly how it goes. You're somewhere like the back streets of Tangier, the mountain villages above the Costa del Sol, or a dusty little town in the Guatemalan highlands, and you meet someone extraordinary. Maybe it's a retired fisherman who knows every hidden cove along the coastline. Maybe it's a local guide who introduced you to a family-run restaurant that didn't appear on any map. Or perhaps it was a fixer - one of those wonderfully resourceful locals who seemed to know everyone i