We stumbled upon a very detailed step-by-step, illustrated guide on how to "crack, crunch and suck out the best bits" of Shanghai hairy crabs, on CNNGo. Couldn't have stopped for a second to wonder why on earth would anyone eat anything that looks like a mitten, from another planet.

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A hairy crab is not exactly the prettiest creature to crawl out of Yancheng Lake into your plate, but they are certainly the most sought after, at this time of the year. When a slight chill can be felt in the air, an estimated five tons of hairy crabs crawl onto Shanghai dining tables from now till winter. The article says that "tearing apart an entire crab from shell to claw is considered a part of the fun of consuming the dish" and quotes Hilton Shanghai hotel executive chef Emmanuel Souliere, who claims that getting messy is 'part of the deal'. And even further, these crustaceans are just the size of a fist, weighing not more than 200g each. Compared to the giant crabs from Alaska or Sri Lanka, they seem more work than they are worth.

So why do people take the trouble? Why do hairy crabs drive epicureans wild with desire to get a taste?

Well, if you can close your eyes for the cholesterol ratings, the roe is sinfully creamy and sensationally rich. And the excitement of the diners, digging for the orange roe, hidden in the centre of the crab, is nothing than pure enjoyment. That is one reason why hairy crabs are always brought to the table whole, so diners can make their way through the shell.

5 hairy bits

1. The locals call it 'dazha xie', and only crabs heavier than 150 grams are classified as such. The Chinese name comes from the catching method - bamboo cages are set in the water, with a lamp hanging above them. The curious crustaceans will climb up along the bamboo wall ('dazha' in Mandarin) and fall into the trap.
2. The best time for foodies to indulge into this hairy temptation is during the months of September and October, when they are freshly caught.

3. Dazha xie can be 30-50 times more expensive than normal hairy crabs.

4. Yangcheng Lake is most famous for its dazha xie hairy crabs.

5. The crabs can be cooked in many ways but the best is to simply steam them with ginger and eat plain or dipped in black vinegar with chopped spring onions.

Have a cracker of a meal!

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Comments

  • Velimira is right about the roe tasting creamy and rich. I ate this once in China. Does anyone know if you can find these crabs in North America, perhaps in Los Angeles, San Francisco, or Vancouver?
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