Over the years, through my one trip to Haiti and various visits to Haitian restaurants in the United States (especially here in Chicago, as well as New York City and Miami, like the fantastically colorful but now sadly defunct Tap Tap), I have come to greatly appreciate the cuisine that is a wonderful, soulful fusion of this country´s Indigenous Taíno roots, French colonial history, African traditions, and the creativity of a put upon but resilient people. It´s a cuisine that thrives on contrast*—bright heat against deep savoriness, crisp textures paired with slow-cooked stews, and humble ingredients elevated through time-honored technique. Meals are hearty, communal, and always made with love and intention. The foundation rests on simple staples—rice, beans, plantains, cassava, and root vegetables—transformed through spice, citrus, and long, careful cooking into something extraordinary.
African influence appears in the use of okra, yam, and the ever-present epis, the flavorful seasoning base made of garlic, scallions, peppers, herbs, and citrus. French influence comes in the sauces, stews, and baked goods, while Spanish and Taíno legacies remain in the use of maize, tropical fruits, and native tubers. And here are five dishes which are perhaps its most emblematic:
Griot - The National Dish of Celebration
If there is one dish that defines Haitian identity, it’s this one (top). This beloved pork dish starts with chunks of meat marinated in epis, sour orange juice, and Scotch bonnet peppers, then slow-braised until tender. The pieces are then fried until golden and crisp on the outside, juicy inside. Griot is almost always served with pikliz, a fiery condiment of pickled cabbage, carrots, and peppers that cuts through the richness with heat and acidity. It’s the centerpiece of birthdays, weddings, and Sunday feasts—a dish that embodies joy and togetherness. The process is long but communal: everyone gathers around to cook, laugh, and share stories while the kitchen fills with the aroma of citrus, garlic, and spice.
Diri ak Djon Djon - The Black Mushroom Rice of the North
Few dishes showcase Haiti’s terroir as beautifully as this one. Djon djon is a rare black mushroom found in the northern regions of Haiti, prized for the earthy, umami flavor it lends to rice. When rehydrated, the mushrooms release a dark essence that colors the rice jet black and fills it with deep, smoky notes. The dish often includes peas or shrimp and is typically reserved for special occasions because of the cost and rarity of the mushrooms. More than just food, diri ak djon djon is a culinary symbol of Haitian pride and regional identity, a dish that evokes home for Haitians everywhere in the diaspora.
Joumou - The "Soup of Freedom"
Every January 1st, Haitians around the world celebrate their independence with a steaming bowl of velvety pumpkin soup. Once forbidden to enslaved Africans under French rule, it became the symbol of freedom when Haiti gained independence in 1804—the first black republic in the world. Joumou combines pureed pumpkin or squash with beef or chicken, noodles, vegetables, and epis, creating a hearty, subtly spiced soup. Both rich and uplifting, its flavor layered with history and emotion.
Marinad - Street Food with a Kick
A favorite among street vendors and snack lovers, these are spiced fritters made from flour, water, garlic, parsley, and hot peppers. Fried until crispy and golden, they’re served hot, often with pikliz or a dipping sauce. Marinad can also be made with fish, chicken, or vegetables, but the plain, spiced version is a universal favorite. They’re the sound and scent of Haitian streets: sizzling oil, laughter, and the rhythm of music in the background. Portable, cheap, and irresistible, marinad captures Haiti’s street food soul—simple ingredients, bold flavor, and unpretentious joy.
Tassot - The Beef (or Goat) Counterpart to Griot
While griot reigns supreme for pork lovers, this dish offers the same indulgence with beef or goat. The meat is marinated in epis and lime juice, then dried slightly and fried until caramelized on the outside and tender inside. Served with rice and beans or fried plantains, tassot is savory, rich, and satisfying—a dish that rewards patience. It’s a favorite at family gatherings and beachside eateries, where it’s often paired with a cold Prestige beer and a generous spoonful of pikliz.
Beyond these iconic dishes, Haitian cuisine shines in its everyday staples: diri kole ak pwa (rice and red beans cooked with coconut milk and spices), banann peze (twice-fried plantains), akra (cassava fritters), and refreshing jus grenadia (passionfruit juice). Another key ingredient is conch, in dishes such as lambi en sos creole, (in a savory sauce of tomatoes, garlic, onion, and fresh herbs) and lambi en kokoye (braised in coconut milk).
Top Haitian Restaurants
In Haiti, best choices include Port-au-Prince´s Gingerbread Restaurant (above, so called because it´s housed in a gingerbread-style 19th-century manse), Les Jardins du Mapunah (very modern, on the grounds of the Museum of the National Pantheon), Kokoye Bar-Grill, La Coquille, Presse Café, Lakou Lakay, and Yanvalou. Meanwhile, in Pétionville, an upscale suburb of the capital, look for La Brasserie in the Karibe Hotel, the restaurant of the NH El Rancho Hotel, Papaye, and Quartier Latin. Up north in Cap Haïtien, there´s Boukanye, Cap Deli, and Lakay, And in Jacmel, the restaurant of the Hotel Cyvadier and the Hotel Florita are good bets.
Top restaurants to find Haitian cuisine in the USA include Bonbon Lakay in the Park Slope neighborhood of Brooklyn, New York City: Chef Creole at seven locations across Miami; Grandchamps Kitchen & Market in Brooklyn´s Bedford-Stuyvesant neighborhood; two Cecibon restaurants in Fort Lauderdale and Miami; Grêp Kafé in the Boston suburb of Medford; Kann in Portland, Oregon (above); Kizin Creole in Chicago; Lakou Café in Brooklyn´s Crown Heights neighborhood; Lakay Food Spot and L´Auberge in North Miami; and Rebél on the Lower East Side of Manhattan, New York City.
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