Kano, Nigeria´s historic second-largest city

Up in Nigeria's arid north near the edge of the Sahel savanna region a two-hour flight from Lagos, the country's second-largest city (more than four million people) is also one of its oldest (founded around 999 CE and continuously inhabited as a trading hub ever since). For centuries Kano sat at the heart of the trans-Saharan caravan trade, exchanging leatherwork, cloth, and metalwares for salt, kola nuts, and slaves, and it remains the economic and cultural capital of Hausa-Fulani Muslim Nigeria — an entirely different cultural world from the cities of the south. The UNESCO World Heritage walled Old City is the main draw: 15th-century mud-brick fortifications originally stretching some 14 kilometers (nearly nine miles) still ring parts of downtown, punctured by historic gates. Inside, wander the ancient Kurmi Market, a warren of narrow lanes selling textiles, leather, and crafts much as it has for centuries, or visit the 500-year-old Kofar Mata dye pits, still hand-dyeing indigo cloth in the traditional method. The Gidan Makama Museum, housed in a 15th-century emir's palace, and Dala Hill, the city's founding site with panoramic views over the rooftops, round out a short but rich list of sights. Kano is deeply, conservatively Islamic — Sharia law applies to Muslim residents — so modest dress is expected, especially for women. Dining centers on hearty northern staples like suya (grilled beef skewer seasoned with a peanut-based mix of spices), tuwo (a thick, puddinglike staple made from rice and served with soups), and kilishi (Nigerian beef jerky); lodging options are limited and mostly functional rather than luxurious, geared toward business travelers rather than tourists.

Read more in my post Surprising Nigeria: Africa´s Most Populous Country Is an Underrated Travel Gem.

Dr. Mary Gilham Archive Project

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