From a Soviet captive state, this tiny outpost of Scandinavia across the Baltic from Finland has been busy transforming itself into a progressive, high-tech exemplar of the 21st century. Yet it still has loads of historic and natural charm to spare.

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Tartu is a 2024 European Capital of Culture

RAndreyEstonia´s second largest city (a bit over 97,000), astride the Emajõgi River a bit over two hours south of Tallinn by car or train, was founded in the 5th century and has long been known as an intellectual/cultural powerhouse (and home to the country´s national university, established in 1632). Much of Its center was destroyed in World War II, but there’s still a good deal of neoclassical architecture, and top attractions/landmarks include the old Lutheran Jaani Kirik (St. John's…

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Return to Tallinn - a look back at an old post of mine

Though I’m (quite obviously) not Estonian, I must admit to a lump in the throat on a cool, overcast morning as the gargantuan green-and-orange Tallink ferry pulled into this tiny Baltic country’s capital after a two-hour sea crossing from Helsinki. It was July 2009, and I was embarking on my introduction to the shiny new Tallinn, 17 years after my last visit and 27 years after my first — as a student studying Russian in Leningrad, then as a travel writer visiting shortly after Estonia‘s…

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