Dan
Significantly larger than California and more than twice the size of the United Kingdom and this wedge of a country of 24 million on the Arabian Sea and running along the southeast corner of the Arabian Peninsula is back in the news thanks to the reignition of the civil war which first erupted in 2014 between the Saudi-Arabia-supported national government and the Iran-backed, Shia Islamic fundamentalist Houthi movement as well as the Houthis´ recent conquest of the port city of Mocha – and with it, control of the also-critical-to-oil-shipping Bab el-Mandeb Strait, a development with ominous international ramifications. So it goes without saying that what´s also one of the world´s poorest countries is off limits to tourism for the moment.
Which is a crying shame, because for such as small country it´s packed with a wealth of historical, cultural, and natural riches – for example, no fewer than five UNESCO World Heritage Sites – which are a legacy of a history stretching back more than 3,000 years, when it became one of the great centers of ancient Arabian civilization, with prosperous kingdoms, such as Saba (Sheba), Qataban, Hadramawt, and Himyar, built largely on the incense trade: Islam arrived in the 7th century, with various Islamic dynasties ruling, along with as Ottoman Empire control in much of the north, and British occupation of Aden throughout much of the 19th and 20th centuries.
In the 20th century, Yemen became two states: North Yemen, a republic after its monarchy was overthrown in 1962, and Marxist South Yemen, created after British withdrawal in 1967. They unified in 1990, but tensions persisted, including civil war in 1994. The 2011 Arab Spring uprising forced longtime president Ali Abdullah Saleh from power; the transition subsequently collapsed, and the Houthis seized capital Sana'a in 2014. A Saudi-led coalition intervened against them in 2015, beginning years of devastating war that continues to this day.
Today Yemen remains divided: the Houthis control the nominal capital Sana'a and most of the populous northwest, while the internationally recognized government and allied forces control much of the south and east (including provisional capital Aden, although many senior leaders operate from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia). Until just recently, there was substantial reduction in large-scale fighting since a 2022 UN-mediated truce, But today the country remains fragmented and mired in a severe humanitarian and economic crisis.
Maybe someday all this will come to an end and Yemen will again be ready to welcome visitors. And for when that day comes, here are the most notable spots not to miss:
Sana’a
At the foot of Yemen´s western mountains, the nominal capital (though occupied by the internationally unrecognized Houthis), with a population of around 2.5 million, is one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited one (dating back more than 2,500 years). Sana´a is most notable for its old quarter, a UNESCO World Heritage Site famous for its intricately adorned rammed-earth and mud-brick buildings rising as high as eight stories as well as mosques and vibrant markets; much of the quarter dates back to before the 11th century. Landmarks include the 17th-century Bab Al-Yaman (the gate into the old city), the Great Mosque (one of the oldest in the Muslim world, believed to have been built in the 630s), and the National Museum. Explore the souks for spices, jewelry, and traditional crafts, and admire the city's skyline from a rooftop café.
Aden
Spectacularly set around an extinct volcanic crater on the Gulf of Aden, this ancient port has been a trading crossroads between Arabia, Africa and Asia for more than 2,000 years. Its historic heart is appropriately called Crater, the old city occupying the volcano's basin and surrounded by rugged volcanic hills. Aden later became a major British possession (1839–1967) and capital of South Yemen until unification in 1990. Today it has around 1.2 million inhabitants and is officially Yemen’s temporary capital, although the internationally recognized government’s senior leadership has frequently operated from Riyadh, amid the country’s continuing political fragmentation. Other highlights include the ancient Tawila Cisterns, thought to date back to the first millennium BCE; Sira Fortress (11th–12th centuries); Aban Mosque (said to have been founded in 771); and British-era Little Ben, built around 1890 (the most notable landmark of the considerable amount of British colonial architecture still evident here).
Socotra Island
Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, the "Galápagos of the Indian Ocean" is 82 miles long, 26 wide, and is in fact the safest part of Yemen to visit, mostly untouched by the civil war. It boasts surreal landscapes (in fact, it´s been described as "the most alien-looking place on Earth"), including the iconic dragon's blood trees, as well as pristine beaches, deep canyons, and towering sand dunes. Socotra´s biodiversity is unmatched, with many species (like the aforemention dragon´s bloods) found nowhere else. The largest town is called Hadibu (pop. 8,500), and things to do include hiking in the Haghier Mountains, swimming in natural pools and pristine beaches, and camping under starry skies. It´s a 2½ -hour flight from Sana´a, and is only feasible to visit with an organized tour rather than independently.
Shibam
In the center of the country a 6½ -hour drive east of Sana´a, the "Manhattan of the Desert" (pop around 7,000) is yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site, an architectural marvel dating back to around 300 CE and famed for its mud-and-clay brick "skyscrapers" rising dramatically as high as 11 stories from the desert floor of the Wadi Doan valley. Walk through its narrow streets - taking note especially of its intricate wooden doors - and learn about its innovative urban planning.
Al Mukalla
Nine hours by road from Sana´a (6½ by air) and founded as a fishing village in 1035, this seaport (pop. 595,000) has an atmospheric old town and souk; the early-20th-century Qu´aiti sultan´s palace (now open to the public as a museum); and several historic fortresses such as the dramatically sited, early-18th-century Al-Ghwayzi. And the scenic nearby coast is a great place to enjoy fresh seafood and quiet, pristine beaches.
A 2½ hour drive east of Sana´a, this city of 57,000 is home to the ruins of the great Sabaean Kingdom (bettter known to many as Sheba, as in the Queen of Sheba), which was a key hub of the ancient incense trade and held sway in southern Arabia from around 1,000 BCE to 275 CE) and is considered to be the cradle of Arabian civilization. These include the ruins of Awwan and Baran temples, reservoirs, palace complexes, and Marib Dam (above), a vast engineering marvel of antiquity.
Taiz
Some 4,600 feet up in the highlands near the country´s southeastern tip, 3½ hours from Sana´a, this city (pop. 941,000) dating back to at least the early 12th century was once a cultural hub and is known for historic mosques such as Ashrafiya, Mua´tabiya, and Mudhaffar; lively markets; "tower houses," the 12th-century Al-Qahira castle (above), and imposing and stunning views from the 9,862-foot summit of nearby Jabal Saber (although the steep road up is full of hairpin turns and switchbacks!). The National Museum of Taiz is also well worth a visit for its showcasing of local history, archaeology, art, culture, and traditions, as its the Taiz Cultural Center for its traditional performances.
Zabid
One of Yemen´s oldest settlements (founded in in the 3rd century BCE during the Sabaean Kingdom), this city on the plains four hours southwest of Sana´a became an important medieval center of Islamic education and culture and is home to historic mosques and traditional architecture, with landmarks including the Rasulid (also known as Al-Qasr) palace of the sultans, the 13th-century Al-Jamali Mosque, and the 8th-century mosque Al-Masjid Al-Kabir (aka the Great Mosque). Today it has a population of around 53,000 - and yes, this too is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, although it´s also listed as "in danger" because of poor upkeep, modern construction, and damage from the civil war.
Tarim
Set amid stunning desert landscapes of the Hadramawt Valley with its soaring cliffs, lush palm groves, and ancient mud-brick buildings, this town of 60,000, located 7½ east of Sana´a and less than an hour from Sibam, was founded in the 7th century and became a center of Sufism, known for its numerous mosques, ancient market, opulent late-19th and early-20th-century palaces. One landmarks not to miss is the imposing white 15th-century Al-Muhdhar Mosque.
And Finally...
The above video is a look at what it´s like in Yemen in the present day. Eye-opening indeed.
Comments
It does seem like a fascinating country - it´s too bad it it´s impossible to visit at the moment.