This landlocked country in South America´s Southern Cone is the continent´s biggest “blank space” for travelers. About the size of California and just under twice the size of Britain, but fairly sparsely populated, with a population of some seven million, it gets a fraction of the travelers welcomed by neighbors like Argentina, Brazil, Chile, and Peru. The reason is that it doesn´t have the “star power” and marquee attractions that pull most first-time visitors. Paraguay’s appeal is different: less about bucket-listers and more everyday culture, river-city life, colonial history, and pristine, untouristed nature spots. So if you’ve already “ticked off” the headline destinations elsewhere, Paraguay can be very worth it precisely because it still feels like you’re discovering something—especially if you like places that aren’t built around tourism—and quite literally worth it as prices are generally quite low.
This country was also a bit notorious in the 20th century because it was isolated under the right-wing military dictatorship (backed by the United States, naturally) of General Alfredo Stroessner from 1954 to 1989, which became mired in corruption; drug trafficking; money-laundering; protecting Nazi war criminals; Stroessner´s and others´ abuse of underage girls; and of course brutal repression of political opponents and LGBTQ people. After a coup eventually deposed the dictatorship, civil and political liberties have expanded and the economy improved—plus there was even a stint for reformist opposition president Fernando Lugo (2008-2012), but these days Stroessner´s “reformed” but still right-wing Colorado Party is back in the driver´s seat under president Santiago Peña and the state of the country´s democracy still very much a mixed bag. (It should also be noted that none of this detracts from your experience as a visitor, of course.)
Geographically, the country is defined by the Paraguay River, which splits it into two very different worlds: the Eastern Region (where most people live) of low hills, river valleys, farms, and subtropical forest remnants, and the Western Region (the Gran Chaco)—vast, hot, and sparsely populated, with thorny dry forest and big-sky distances. Socially, Paraguay stands out in the Americas for something you notice immediately in conversation and signage: it’s quite bilingual. Spanish and Guaraní—the language spoken by the people whom the conquistadors conquered—are both official, and Guaraní is widely spoken in daily life (often alongside Spanish,) making Paraguay one of the rare countries where an “Indigenous” language is truly mainstream.
And by the way, safety in Paraguay tends to reflect typical urban vs. rural differences: petty crime like pickpocketing is the most common risk in cities, and inexpensive taxis/rideshares or hotel transport are standard precautions. Violent crime against foreigners is not common, but awareness and standard urban vigilance are a good idea, especially after dark.
And if all this intrigues you, here are a half dozen spots not to miss:
Founded as a Spanish fort in 1537 and a town in 1541 (making it one of South America´s oldest cities), Paraguay´s capital (above and top), astride the rather brownish Río Paraguay now has around 462,000 residents and feels very untouristy and “lived-in.” Think leafy neighborhoods and a very walkable historic core (referred to as the microcentro) where the main sights are within a relatively small area; the wider city sprawls and, in the heat, most people rely on taxis/rideshares between districts.
Two of Asunción´s main landmarks are both connected to Paraguay’s national story. The Casa de la Independencia is a preserved 1772 house which served as a clandestine meeting place for the country´s 1811 independence movement; today it’s a museum with period-furnished rooms as well as exhibits documenting that era. And the 159-year-old Palacio de los López, (named after the country´s first president) is the neoclassical seat of government along with the president’s workplace (not residence), open for interior visits and guided tours. Other worthwhile stops include downtown´s neoclassical National Pantheon of the Heroes mausoleum; the Museo del Barro, which brings together Indigenous art, pre-Columbian ceramics, and contemporary works in one of the country’s most important museum collections; the Dr. Andrés Barbero Ethnographic Museum, focusing on Paraguay´s pre-Columbian peoples; the Museum of Justice, especially focusing on the Stroessner dictatorship; and a modest Museum of Fine Arts. You might also want to pop into the gracious, 105-year-old grande dame Gran Hotel de Paraguay (with rates a steal, by the way, with nightly rates in the USD$60-$80 range).
Outside the “sights” to see, stroll downtown´s Calle Palma during the day for shops and street life (it´s pretty dead at night); stroll some more in Loma San Jerónimo, a charming neighborhood of cobblestone streets, flower-lined alleys, street art, and artesinal markets; check out 84-year-old Mercado 4, a big, bustling covered market open weekdays 7 am to 6 pm and weekend from 8 to 11; and after dark, head to the restaurant and bar strip along Paseo Carmelitas.
Areguá
Just over a half hour´s drive from the capital and founded a year after it, this town of around 84,000 is the classic easy day trip: a small historic town of cobblestone streets, colonial-era ambiance, craft markets, landmarks such as the 164-year-old Virgen de la Candelaria Church and pottery workshops and markets (above) set above Paraguay´s largest lake, Ypacaraí, up to 15 miles long and four miles wide. The signature nature stop nearby is Cerro Koi (Cerro Coi), known for its distinctive rock formations and a viewpoint walk with lake views—more of a gentle outing than a strenuous hike. People also come for the simple pleasure of hanging out: cafés, artisan stalls, and lake lookouts that make it feel like Paraguay’s “slow weekend” capital.
San Bernardino
An even smaller town (pop. 21,000), a little farther away from Asunción (about an hour), and also on the shores of Ypacaraí, “SanBer” has been Paraguay´s quintessential summer resort destination for more than a century, founded by German and Swiss immigrants in the 1880s. The experience here revolves around the costanera (waterfront): lake breezes, promenading, and hanging out at beach areas like Playa La Rotonda, plus local viewpoints and photo spots around town. Take a side trip to the above-mentioned nearby Areguá, and be sure to go for a boat ride around the lake, too. A classic landmark is the 138-year-old Hotel del Lago, long associated with SanBer´s resort history.
Encarnación
Quite a bit farther afield (just under six hours from the capital), Paraguay´s third largest city (pop. 107,000) started out as a Jesuit mission in 1615, and these days it too sports a beachy vacation feel (albeit with more of an urban vibe than Areguá or San Bernardino), with golden sand beaches like Playa San José along the Paraná River , plenty of cafés, restaurants, and hotes; and a vibe some have dubbed “the Paraguayan Miami” (plus while you´re here, check out the Municipal Railway Museum. It also makes the perfect base for exploring Paraguay´s most historic sights, the late-17th- and early-18th-century religious missions established by the Jesuit order (see below).
The Jesuit Missions
A half hour from Encarnación, the UNESCO World Heritage missions of La Santísima Trinidad de Paraná and Jesús de Tavarangue are ruins of planned towns established by Spanish Jesuits which fused European Catholic design with Guaraní artisanship. Santísima Trinidad del Paraná was established in 1706 and is considered the better preserved complex: you can still read the mission “city plan” in stone—the Plaza Mayor, the main church, smaller church structures, cloisters/college areas, workshops, and residential districts. Nearby Jesús de Tavarangue was founded 21 years earlier, and its church ruins remain imposing, with the broader layout still showing the plaza and settlement structure, even though less survives intact than at Trinidad.
Ciudad del Este
“City of the East,” Paraguay´s second largest and most important (pop. 326,000), is located a four-hour drive from Asunción, on the southeastern border´s “Triple Frontier” with Argentina and Brazil. It was also planned and built by the Stroessner régime just 69 years ago, and has become the country´s most energetic and intense city, with a good deal of manufacturing and a big free trade zone, including a shopping mecca that draws thousands of bargain-hunting Brazilians and Argentines year round (though there´s also a big problem with counterfeit goods). There´s plenty of dining and entertainment options, but no “sights” in CDE per se; instead, it serves as a base to visit several nearby attractions. The hydroelectric Itaipú Dam is one of the world´s largest and operated jointly with Brazil (you can check out the viewing platform and visitor center with informative exhibits, as well as take a technical tour). Then around 20 minutes away, the Saltos del Monday waterfalls, surrounded by dramatic red-rock cliffs, plunge 148 feet (45 meters) in a series of parallel cascades. But by far the biggest draw is a sight that dwarfs Monday: the majestic Iguazú/Iguaçu falls shared by Brazil and Argentina, a short drive across the Friendship Bridge between CDE and the city of Foz do Iguaçu.
More info: VisitParaguay.travel
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