Palestine´s West Bank - a territory of just under 2,200 square miles with a population of 4.2 million, wedged betwen Israel and Jordan - has long been a trove of history and culture enjoyed by millions of visitors in recent decades, especially those attracted to biblical history (mostly but far from exclusively Christians from around the world). But beginning in the fall of 2023, Israel responded to the brutal murders and kidnappings of more than a thousand of its citizens by Gaza´s terrorist rulers Hamas by inflicting its own, vastly more massive, terroristic campaign of genocide, mass destruction, and mass starvation in Gaza, as well as ramping up attacks against Palestinians from Israeli settlers (which now number around 700,000), more seizures of their lands in the West Bank, and even plans by radical right-wing Israelis including politicians of outright annexation and removal of all Palestinians, whose history stretches back here for thousands of years. So naturally, thanks to all the uncertainty, unrest, and increasing violence on the part of the Israeli settlers and army, tourism to the West Bank has not merely declined but all but disappeared, now estimated at some two to three percent of prewar levels, with visitors in the mere hundreds.
But with all these burning issues so much in the headlines these days, it´s well worth taking a look at the remarkable sites and experiences the West Bank has to offer, with the hope that after all the death, destruction, and acrimony of the present day, tourism can return to this land. Unlike in Gaza, whose sites (covered on Tripatini here) have essentially been obliterated along with everything else, all of these seven key destinations still endure - for now:
Bethlehem (Beit Lahm)
This city of 29,000, just a 20- to 30-minute drive south of Jerusalem, is celebrated as the birthplace of Jesus Christ, and so it has traditionally been by far the West Bank´s most important Christian pilgrimage destination, with its top site being the Church of the Nativity, a UNESCO World Heritage Site on Manger Square whose current structure was built under the Byzantine emperor Justinian in the 6th century and of course enlarged over the centuries, to cover more than 129,000 square feet. Besides a main nave and four side aisles, its star attraction, so to speak (marked by a 14-point silver star) is a grotto crypt under the main altar where Christ is said to have been born. Other notable site: the Chapel of the Milk Grotto, where traditional has it that Mary and Joseph hunkered down with baby Jesus during King Herod´s "massacre of the innocents" (so named because the rock supposedly turned white after a few drops of milk fell from Mary´s breasts); Shepherd´s Field just outside town, said to be where angels announced the birth of Jesus to local herders (and marked by a pair of churches, one Catholic and one Greek Orthodox); and Rachel´s Tomb, an Ottoman-era structure said to be the burial site of an Old Testament matriarch and honored by Christians, Jews, and Muslims alike, Apart from all that, there's a highly atmospheric old town of stone buildings and cobblestone streets (such as the main thoroughfare Star Street) to explore, including a Bethlehem Museum; the Al Badd Museum of Oil Production; the Baituna Al Talhami Museum (an historical house showcasing Palestinian heritage); Palestinian Heritage Centre; and a series of thought-provoking Banksy street murals painted in 2005 (including images of a dove in a bulletproof vest; a girl frisking a soldier; and a masked Palestinian about to hurl a bouquet of flowers instead of a rock or Molotov cocktail).
East Jerusalem (al-Quds ash-Sharqiya)
Inhabited since around 5000 BCE and considered the historical heart of Palestine, this tiny district (just over a third of a square mile) includes Jerusalem´s UNESCO World Heritage Old City, surrounded by 16th-century Ottoman-era walls (on whose ramparts you can walk); with a population of around 31,000; and divided into a Muslim Quarter (the largest and most populous), a Christian Quarter, and Armenian Quarter, and a Jewish Quarter. Unsurprisingly, therefore, most of the city´s most iconic sites are found here, such as the Western Wall (aka the Wailing Wall), the only remaining part of the Jewish temple that was standing on Temple Mount 2,000 years ago, the late-7th-century Al-Aqsa Mosque with its Dome of the Rock (the world´s oldest surviving example of Islamic architecture); the 4th-century Church of the Holy Sepulchre, considered Christianity´s holiest site; the Tower of David (aka the Citadel), built in 1310 under Egyptian Mamluk rule and now home to a museum of Jerusalem history and engaging nighttime light shows; and the early-16th-century Damascus Gate; Then of course there are many picturesque streets, lanes, and alleyways to explore, as well as other attractions such as the Arab Market (Souk) and the remains of the Cardo, the commercial center of ancient Roman Aelia Capitolina, with archaeological sites sitting next to shops and boutiques.
Hebron (Al-Khalil)
In the south, a 40-minute drive from Jerusalem, the West Bank´s largest city outside Jerusalem (pop. 201,000) is also one of the world´s oldest continually inhabited, and in part because it was the traditional home and burial spot of the Old Testament patriarchs Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob is considered sacred to Muslims and to a lesser extent Christians, as well as being one of Judaism´s Four Holy Cities. It´s also considered one of the territory´s most troubled, in part because 80 percent is controlled by Palestinians and 20 percent by fewer than a thousand Israelis, in the form of internationally illegal settlements, and there´s a lot of hostility between the two groups, including violence (recently more on the rise) directed by fanatical Israeli settlers at the Palestinians. Much of the old quarter in the Palestinian zone is a shadow of its former self with some parts blocked off by the Israeli occupiers, although there are still some markets and traditional crafts shops and workshops (including those showcasing glass and ceramics, a Hebron specialty). But history aficionados come here mostly to visit (which is under very tight security) the blocky, fortresslike, UNESCO World Heritage Sanctuary of Abraham, sacred to Muslims (much of it is a mosque), Jews (who calli it the Cave of the Patriarchs and revere it as their second holiest site), and also Christians because of its associations with Abraham;; it´s the only full intact structure to survive from the 1st-century BCE reign of King Herod. There are also a trio of museums: the Old Hebron Museum on the Palestinian side, in the former, 96-year-old former Palestine Hotel; the Hebron University Museum, and the Jewish side´s Hebron Museum (aka Hebron Visitor´s Centre), showcasing the city´s Jewish history.
Jericho (Ariha)
As the old U.S. Negro spiritual puts it, "Joshua fit the battle of Jericho and the walls came tumblin´ down," referring to the famous Old Testament assault of the Israelites under their leader Joshua (aka Yehoshua, heir to Moses) against the Canaanites. This was later determined by historians to be apocryphal - for example, those famous walls, 10,000 years old, are still here for the visiting - but it´s an example of the millennia of lore and history which has left its legacy in perhaps the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world (back to around 10,000 BCE). Now with a population of around 21,000, Palestinian-Authority-ruled Jericho is located in the lush, palm-filled Jordan Valley a 45-minute drive from Jerusalem (it´s also the world´s lowest-altitude city), and its attractions for visitors are archaeological as well as biblical, with sites such as Hisham´s Palace, three miles north of city center, is an Islamic Umayyad dynasty "desert castle" complex covering 150 acres and built in the first half of the 8th century (the bath house here is known for its mosaics); the Roman-era Herod´s Winter Palace with its mosaics, frescoes, pools, and gardens, and especially the ruins of UNESCO World Heritage Tell es-Sultan (above), the core of ancient Jericho, including the aforementioned walls, dwellings, and a 28-foot conical tower that´s considered among humanity´s earliest stone monuments. And of course there´s the biblical, as well, most notably the Mount of Temptation (Jebel Quruntul), where Jesus was said to have spent 40 days fasting in the desert and was tempted by Satan (including the Greek Orthodox Monastery of the Temptation, next to the cave where JC supposedly hung out, and connected to the city by a cable car) and Qasr al-Yahud on the Jordan River just 20 minutes from Jericho, traditionally held to be where John the Baptist baptized JC and operated as a park by the Israelis. Another worthwhile outlying site, about an hour south, is the still active Greek Orthodox Monastery of St. George of Choziba, hanging from the cliff of Wadi Qelt gulch since the 5th century and reachable via footbridge. And of course less than a half hour away lies the shore of the Dead Sea (read on).
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Kalia Beach/The Dead Sea
The lowest point on earth at more than 1,410 feet below sea level, also the world's deepest hypersaline lake (997 feet) covers up to 31 miles long at nine miles wide, bordering the West Bank, Israel, and Jordan. That hypersalinity (nearly ten times saltier than the ocean) means you get an extra weightless and rejuvenating feeling as you float in these powder-blue waters, and the minerals in the water as well as the clay mud on the bottom and shores are excellent for the skin. At Kalia Beach, 40 minutes from Jerusalem and less than a half hour from Jericho, you can find chairs, umbrellas, a changing room, a restaurant, a bar serving juice, beer, and snacks, and even some spa services (a number involving that rejuvenating clay). One caveat: this area is under Israeli control, and in fact, its operations are managed by the nearby Kalia settlement, which is considered illegal under international law.
Nablus
Founded in 72 CE as Roman Flavia Neapolis, this bustling, vibrant city of 157,000 located between Mounts Ebal and Gerizim, about an hour 20 minutes north of Jerusalem is notable for its intellectual, cultural, and commercial activity, hosting for example the Palestine stock exchange and An-Najah University. Nablus doesn´t have biblical sites but for the visitor more than makes up for it with an atmospheric medieval quarter - packed with ancient alleyways and passageways, mosques (Hanbali is particularly spectacular), fountains, traditional hammams (bath houses) balconies, a bustling bazaar, and more than a hundred historical buildings of note, including palaces such as Abd Al-Hadi, Al-Nimr, and Touqan. One local specialty is artisinal soaps made from olive oil and other ingredients, and you can also visit a number of factories here. Another notable aspect is the locals´ love of sweets, with dozens of local specialties such as kanafeh, a mix of shredded wheat pastry and sweetened goat cheese, baked and soaked in syrup. For views of the city, you can head up to Sama Nablus Park atop Mount Ebal, and on 886m-high Mount Gerizim (aka Jabal al-Tor) you´ll find the village of Kiryat Luza, home to some 400 Samaritans, adherents of an ancient monotheistic religion said to be the faith of the original Israelites; it´s fascinating to observe their traditional way of life, taste their cuisine, visit several archaeological sites up here, and learn more about their history and culture at the local museum. Also worth a visit on the eastern outskirts of modern Nablus between Ebal and Gerizim is the ruins of Tell Balata, the remains of the ancient Canaanite of Shechem, dating back 5,000 years.
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In the central part of the West Bank, a 45-minute drive north of Jerusalem, the administrative capital of the Palestinian Authority (pop. 48,000 in the city itself, more than 360,000 in the greater metro area) is fairly “new” by the standards of Palestine, founded in the 16th century by a clan of Arab Christians, though there are also buildings here from the period of the medieval Crusades as well as remnants from the biblical period of Herod the Great and even nearby rock-cut cave tombs from the much earlier Canaanite era, around 3100–2900 BCE. Today it showcases modern Palestinian culture and society, as well as a dollop of history, with Al-Manara Square its bustling central hub, framed by lion statues, and filled with shops and cafés. Highlights include the Yasir Arafat Museum and Mausoleum, chronicling the life of the iconic Palestinian leader as well as the broader history of the Palestinian struggle (including his office and living quarters); the Ottoman-era Clock Tower; a small set of Roman ruins; the Dar Zahran Heritage Building, a restored 19th-century home showcasing traditional Palestinian architecture, art exhibits, and cultural events (you can also buy local handicrafts here); the Al-Ma’mal Foundation for Contemporary Art; the Khalil Sakakini Cultural Center; and the Ramallah Cultural Palace with its concerts and other performances.
In addition, the narrow streets and lanes of the old quarter are lined with beautifully preserved Ottoman-era houses, with intricate stonework, arched windows, and traditional Palestinian designs, as well as ancient churches and mosques and of course the traditional souk (market). There are also plenty of galleries, restaurants serving both traditional and modern fusion cuisine, and even bars (remember, Ramallah was founded by Christians and they´re still an important force in the city today). Finally, outside the city, nearby Birzeit and Taybeh offer historic churches and mosques, olive groves, a taste of traditional Palestinian life (in Birzeit you´ll find the striking modern Palestinian Museum, with rotating exhibits on Palestinian history, culture, and contemporary issues, as well as landscaped grounds with beautiful views of the surrounding hills, and Taybeh is home to Palestine’s first beer brewery, founded in 1994). Then of course there´s the aforementioned rock cut tombs; Khirbet al-Tirah is an archaeological site features not just the tombs but also two Byzantine-era churches from the 5th century, with visible mosaic floors and the remains of stone columns.
Plus One More: Nazareth (an-Nāṣira)
Best known to Christians as the hometown of Jesus Christ, this city is located in the north of the state of Israel (about an hour 20 minutes from Jerusalem) but its population is almost totally Palestininan Arab, of whom 69 percent are Muslim and 31 percent Christian. "The Arab Capital of Israel" offers a stimulating blend of biblical history, Palestinian culture, and lively modern life. The cit´s most important "sight" is the Basilica of the Annunciation, the Middle East´s largest church, built on the spot where the Angel Gabriel is said to have announced to the Virgin Mary that she would give birth to Jesus. The church as we see it today, however, is very recent, finished in 1969 on the site of previous churches dating back to the 6th century. The lower level houses ancient grottoes, while the upper basilica features stunning mosaics from around the world. Close to the basilica, St. Joseph’s Church stands over a spot held to be Joseph’s carpentry workshop, and Mary’s Well commemorates where the Virgin Mary is said to have drawn water. Also nearby is the humble synagogue church where tradition holds that Jesus taught as a boy. Beyond all these, it's a delight to wander through the old city and souq, with winding alleyways filled with spice stalls, traditional craft shops, and fresh produce markets. Don’t miss a cup of Arabic coffee or a taste of authentic kanafeh, a sweet cheese pastry, and sample local specialties such as maqluba (layered rice and meat), falafel, and freshly baked pita—at family-owned restaurants. Just outside the city, this dramatic cliff known as Mount Precipice offers panoramic views of the Jezreel Valley and Mount Tabor. According to tradition, it’s where an angry crowd attempted to cast Jesus off the hill. And Nazareth Village is a living-history museum recreating daily life in 1st-century Galilee, with meet costumed guides, see ancient farming techniques, and walk among olive presses and stone houses. And if you can make it here in December, there's a wonderful Christmas market.
More information: TravelPalestine.ps; Visit-Palestine.net,
Comments
Great stuff - I look forward to being able to visit one day!
Thank you for this. My father is from Nazareth and my mother from Safad, an hour away, and I grew up as a refugee in Syria and have never known my ancestral homeland. I would love to visit one day but of course am prohibited from it by Israel. Who knows when and if that will ever change, but in the meantime I enjoyed reading about the important places of the land of my ancestors.