Wallonie, Belgium’s French-speaking south, occupies about 55 percent of the country’s land area yet is home to only around 3.7 million people—less than a third of the national population. Consisting of five provinces, it has been long shaped by coal mining and heavy industry and has faced decades of economic difficulty, and its cities lack the international polish and visibility of Flemish destinations like Antwerp, Brugge (Bruges), Ghent, and Leuven. But that relative obscurity is part of its appeal. Wallonia offers a more textured, less touristed Belgium, where industrial heritage, river valleys, and the forested Ardennes region combine with a quieter, more local atmosphere. And here´s a look at a half dozen of its major destinations (excluding Brussels, which though it´s majority French-speaking these days is an enclave within Flanders):
The region’s second-largest city (about 200,000 people, metro area 430,000), located about an hour from Brussels, is often dismissed as gritty or even derelict—a former mining hub marked by high unemployment and crime along with a mix of brutalist, utilitarian, and occasional Belle Époque architecture. But as Visit Wallonia likes to say, "don´t judge a book by its cover." Founded in 1666, Charleroi is home to some of Wallonia’s most significant historical sites, and it´s also been undergoing a significant renaissance in recent years. Chief among local historical allures are the 300-foot-high art-deco Belfry, part of the city hall built in 1936, and three UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Bois du Cazier, a former coal mine and now a deeply affecting museum and the nearby Canal du Centre hydraulic boat lifts. No, Charleroi isn´t conventionally attractive, but it is fascinating for those interested in industrial history and urban reinvention.
Further south, about two hours from Brussels in the Ardennes this town of around 11,000 (above and top) is a compact cluster of stone houses, narrow lanes, and riverside views along the Ourthe River,.often billed as the “smallest city in the world.” Visitors come for its storybook medieval atmosphere, its topiary gardens, and access to hiking and kayaking in the surrounding hills. But there are plenty of sites and museums here, too, including the local art and history museum; Avori, Petit Soums, and Fort de Launay castles; the Maison des Mégalithes (a neolithic archaeological site), a vintage tram ride; and museums devoted to sacred art, toys, local World War II history. As I recall from from a press trip which included Durbuy many years ago, it´s tranquil, very picturesque, and ideal for a slow-paced stay (another highlight here was being served an exquisite 150-year-old brandy in an historic inn whose name now escapes me).
Belgium´s third-largest city and Wallonia´s most dynamic urban center (pop. 200,000; metro area 600,000) is about an hour from Brussels by car or train, and while historically industrial, it's evolved into a lively cultural city with a strong student population. It feels less polished than Flemish cities, but more authentic and "lived-in" rather than the sometimes museum-like feel of the more touristed Flemish cities. The Gothic while modern landmarks such as the La Boverie Museum, and Santiago Calatrava´s soaring, modern Liège-Guillemins Station give it a mix of grit and energy. Other draws include the 15th.century Cathédrale de St.-Paul; the dramatic Montagne de Bueren staircase and overlook; Archéoforum, an underground medieval and Roman archaeological site and museums such as the Grand Curtius, of archaeology and art housed in a 17th-century mansion, the Musée de Beaux Arts, the Musée d´Armes (antique weapons, Europe´s second largest collection), and the Musée de la Vie Wallonne, all about Walloon traditions and culture.
To the west, this small city of 95,000, also about an hour from Brussels, delivers a more compact experience, with its elegant Grand Place, its Baroque, town hall, also Baroque UNESCO-World-Heritage belfry, and Gothic Sainte-Waudru Collegiate Church anchoring a historic center that has benefited from cultural investment, especially since its year as a European Capital of Culture in 2016; in fact, it´s considered Belgium´s cultural capital, with a rich artistic scene replete with galleries showcasing both traditional and contemporary works, along with museums such as Beaux Arts Mons (BAM); you can also get a dose of the region´s wartime history at the Mons Memorial Museum. And nearby are a series of charming small towns as well as another UNESCO World Heritage Site, the old industrial coal mining complex and company town of Grand Hornu. Finally, if you can, book well ahead to experience the Ducasse de Mons (aka the Doudou), a folk festival held 57 days after Easter with its roots in the Middle Ages.
Perhaps the most immediately appealing of Wallonia’s cities is its regional capital (pop. 110,000), yet again about an hour from Brussels. Founded during Roman times at the confluence of the Meuse and Sambre rivers, it´s dominated by the vast Citadelle (one of Europe´s largest fortresses, founded in 937), with sweeping views over the surrounding countryside (you can get up here via funicular or cable car). The villagelike Vieux Quartiers (old towns) below are relaxed and walkable, with cafés and small shops lining cobblestone lanes. and landmarks including the late-Baroque Cathedral of Saint-Aubain, the early-12th-century Cistercian abbey Notre-Dame du Viver (aka the Abbaye de Marche-les-Dames), and the elegant, mid-19th-century Théâtre Royale. There´s quite a batch of museums, as well, including Les Bateliers (archaology and decorative arts), the Musée des Arts Anciens du Namurois (medieval and Renaissance treasures), Musafrica (devoted to the often shameful history of Belgium´s only colony, the Congo), the Musée de la Fraise (strawberry fields forever!), the Musée des Jouets Anciens (antique toys), and even a computer museum.
The "City of the Five Spires" (pop. 70,000) is one of Belgium´s oldest towns, founded on the River Scheldt in the 3rd century under Roman emperor Maximian, and its Romanesque/Gothic Notre-Dame Cathedral (sporting the aforementioned five spires) and late-12th-century Beffroi (Belfry, Belgium´s oldest) are designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tournai´s old quarter is especially rich in Art Nouveau artchitecture, and other notable landmarks include the Pont des Trous, a compact bridge dating back to the late 13th century; and the triangular Grand Place, home to the cathedral, the Belfry, the Renaissance city hall, guildhouses including the ornate, 415-year-old Halle aux Draps (Cloth Hall, now home to exhibitions), and the 12th-century Romanesque Church of Saint-Quentin. Learn about local history and folklore at the Maison Tournaisienne, drink in the art at the Musée des Beaux Arts (designed, by the way, by Victor Horta, the early-20th-century Belgian architect and designer who was one of the main founders of the Art Nouveau movement), and get an eyeful of historical puppets at the Maison de la Marionette.
Sites of World War I and World War II
Wallonia is also home to dozens of Belgium’s (even all of Europe´s) most important but often overlooked sites relating to both World War I and World War II. The region contains dozens, including battlefields, cemeteries, memorials, and museums, and several are part of broader commemorative landscapes, with a number incorporated into several UNESCO World Heritage listings. Around Bastogne, the Bastogne War Museum and nearby Mardasson Memorial mark the pivotal Battle of the Bulge in 1944-45. Near Mons, the Battle of Mons site marks the British army’s first major engagement of WWI.and the UNESCO World Heritage St Symphorien Military Cemetery uniquely honors both British and German dead from "the Great War" (there´s no interpretation or visitor center, but information panels at the entrance explain key parts of the history), while the Mons Memorial Museum (above) provides broader context on both wars. Outside Liège, Fort Eben-Emael illustrates the dramatic German airborne assault of 1940, and near Malmedy, the Baugnez 44 Historical Centre commemorates the "Malmedy massacre" of civilians and Allied soldiers by the Waffen SS in 1944.
For more, check out VisitWallonia.com.
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