When I lived in New York City many years ago, every so often I would take the subway down to the East Village and for a rib-sticking repast at a Ukrainian restaurant called Veselka, founded in 1954 in what was then Little Ukraine. It was always a treat, but when I mentioned it to friends and family, they would often assume Ukrainian cuisine was pretty much the same as Russian. But in fact it´s one of Europe’s richest and most distinctive culinary traditions — hearty yet nuanced, deeply agricultural yet remarkably sophisticated in its layering of flavors. Rooted in fertile black-earth farmland stretching across the steppe, it was shaped by Orthodox Christian traditions, and influenced over centuries by Polish, Lithuanian, Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, Jewish, Tatar, and Balkan cultures.
At its core, Ukrainian food reflects the country’s geography. Ukraine has long been known as one of Europe’s great breadbaskets, and grains play a central role: wheat, rye, buckwheat, barley, and millet appear in breads, porridges, dumplings, and soups. Sunflower oil — now ubiquitous globally — is particularly associated with Ukraine, one of the world’s leading producers of sunflowers. Other staples include potatoes, cabbage, beetroot, onions, mushrooms, carrots, dill, parsley, garlic, sour cream, and an impressive variety of pickled and fermented vegetables.
One hallmark of Ukrainian cooking is its balance between richness and freshness. Dishes can be filling and rustic, especially during harsh winters, yet are often brightened with herbs, garlic, sour cream, or tart fermented elements. Slow cooking is common, particularly braising and simmering, producing deeply developed flavours rather than aggressively spiced food. Pork is historically the dominant meat in much of the country, though poultry, river fish, and beef also feature widely.
Another important aspect is seasonality and preservation. For centuries, Ukrainians relied on fermentation, salting, smoking, drying, and pickling to survive long winters. Pickled tomatoes, cucumbers, mushrooms, cabbage, and apples remain an everyday feature of the table. Fermented dairy products and sour rye flavours also contribute to the cuisine’s characteristic tanginess.
Though outsiders often conflate Ukrainian and Russian food, there are plenty of distinctions. Russian cuisine traditionally evolved farther north, shaped by colder forests and heavier reliance on rye, preserved fish, and dense winter fare. Ukrainian cuisine generally uses more vegetables, more garlic, more fresh herbs, and often lighter, brighter flavour profiles. It also draws more heavily from Central European and Black Sea influences. In addition, many dishes internationally labelled “Russian” actually have Ukrainian origins or deeply Ukrainian variants — a particularly sensitive issue today amid the war and broader cultural debates about national identity.
Take borshch, perhaps the country’s culinary emblem. Frequently misidentified abroad as Russian, it is strongly associated with Ukraine and recognised by UNESCO as part of Ukraine’s intangible cultural heritage. Ukrainian borshch is typically a vibrant beet soup enriched with cabbage, potatoes, carrots, onions, tomatoes, and often beef or pork stock, then finished with garlic, dill, and sour cream. Regional variations are endless.
Among Ukraine’s most iconic dishes, a half dozen stand out in particular:
Borscht
Far more than simply a beet soup, this is one of Ukraine’s great national symbols — a dish tied to family identity, regional pride, and centuries of culinary tradition. Nearly every household has its own version, often passed down through generations, and debates over the “correct” recipe can become surprisingly passionate. While beetroot gives the soup its characteristic color, Ukrainian borscht is usually a complex, slow-simmered composition of vegetables that may also include cabbage, potatoes, carrots, onions, tomatoes, beans, and sometimes beef or pork stock. It is typically finished with dill, garlic, and a generous dollop of sour cream.
Versions vary enormously across the country. Some are a vivid ruby red, while others are lighter or almost brownish depending on ingredients and preparation. Regional recipes may incorporate beans, mushrooms, and even river fish and smoked pears. In summertime, chilled versions are popular, while winter borshch tends, unsurprisingly, to be richer and heartier. Regardless, it´s almost always served with dark bread — and often with garlicky pampushky rolls.
comments.ua
Deruny
These crisp, golden potato pancakes are among Ukraine’s most beloved comfort foods, particularly associated with the northern and western parts of the country, where potatoes have long been a dietary staple. They’re made from grated potatoes mixed with onion, eggs, and a little flour, then fried until crunchy on the outside while remaining soft and tender within. The aroma alone — earthy potato, sizzling onion, and browned butter or oil — evokes home kitchens and family gatherings for many Ukrainians.
Deruny also showcase one of the defining qualities of Ukrainian cuisine: the ability to transform inexpensive rural staples into dishes rich in flavor and texture. They’re most commonly served hot with sour cream, but may also come topped with sautéed mushrooms, dill, garlic sauce, or rich mushroom gravy, particularly during colder months. In some regions they are baked after frying in clay pots with cream or stock, lending them even more heartiness.
Regional variations abound, with some including grated carrots, cheese, herbs, or minced meat, while others aim for an especially crisp, lace-like texture. Similar potato pancakes exist elsewhere in Eastern Europe, but Ukrainian deruny have a particularly strong connection to village cooking and traditional hospitality. Comforting, filling, and intensely savory, they remain a staple both in rustic countryside homes and modern Ukrainian restaurants.
Holubtsi/Golubtsi
These comforting cabbage rolls are among the most traditional and beloved dishes in Ukrainian cuisine, closely associated with family gatherings, holidays, and village celebrations. They consist of tender cabbage leaves wrapped around a filling usually made of rice and minced pork or beef, then slowly baked or simmered in tomato sauce, broth, or sour cream. The long cooking process produces rich, deeply savory flavors and a soft, melt-in-the-mouth texture.
Cabbage has long been a dietary staple in Ukraine because it stores well through winter, and fillings vary according to region, season, and family tradition; some versions incorporate buckwheat, mushrooms, or extra herbs, particularly during Orthodox fasting periods when meat is avoided. Served with sour cream, rye bread, or pickles, holubtsi embody the warmth and comforting rusticity at the heart of Ukrainian cuisine.
Jason Lam
Kotleta po-Kyïvsky (Chicken Kyiv)
One of Ukraine’s best-known culinary exports internationally is a breaded chicken cutlet wrapped around chilled garlic-herb butter, then fried or baked so that the butter melts dramatically when the chicken is cut open. Crisp on the outside and rich and aromatic within, it combines comforting flavors with an unexpectedly elegant presentation. Traditionally it is served with potatoes, vegetables, or simple greens that allow the buttery filling — typically flavored with parsley, dill, and garlic — to remain the centrepiece.
Though its precise origins are debated and it was long claimed by Russian cuisine during the Soviet period, the dish is now widely recognized as Ukrainian in origin or at least inseparably associated with Kyiv itself. It reflects a more refined, urban side of Ukrainian cooking, shaped in part by French culinary influences adopted by aristocratic and cosmopolitan kitchens in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Unlike the rustic peasant dishes often associated with Eastern Europe, Chicken Kyiv points to the sophistication of pre-Soviet restaurant culture in cities such as Kyiv and Odesa.
The preparation requires notable technical skill: the butter must remain sealed inside the chicken during cooking so that it forms a rich sauce when released. Because of this theatrical element, Chicken Kyiv became especially popular in restaurants and hotels across Europe and North America during the 20th century. Today it remains both a symbol of Ukrainian culinary heritage and one of the country’s most recognizable dishes abroad.
Salo
Probably the most culturally emblematic Ukrainian food after borshch, this is pork fatback lard (a layer of subcutaneous fat taken from under the skin of the back of a pig), traditionally salted and sometimes smoked, spiced, or rubbed with garlic and pepper. It´s usually eaten sliced thinly on dark rye bread and accompanied by raw garlic, onions, mustard, horseradish, or pickles. Rich, intensely savory, and actually surprisingly delicate when prepared well, it has long been prized both as a practical source of calories during harsh winters and as a symbol of hospitality and rural tradition.
And salo also occupies an almost folkloric place in Ukrainian culture, frequently appearing in jokes, songs, and expressions of national identity. Regional variations abound: some versions are heavily seasoned, others smoked, while some are almost silky and mild in flavor. It´s commonly served alongside vodka or horilka (Ukraine’s traditional spirit), particularly during festive meals and gatherings with friends and family.
Varenyky
These soft boiled dumplings — comparable to Polish pierogi — are among the most beloved staples of Ukrainian home cooking. Made from tender dough folded around fillings such as potato, cheese, cabbage, mushrooms, cherries, meat, or sweet farmer’s cheese, varenyky can be savory or sweet depending on the occasion and region. They´re typically topped with fried onions, butter, and sour cream, though sweet versions may be served with berries or sugar.
Simple yet deeply comforting, varenyky have a cherished place in family life and celebrations, especially during holidays such as Christmas Eve, when meatless mushroom or potato fillings are common. Preparing them is often a communal activity, with multiple generations gathering around the kitchen table to roll dough, shape dumplings, and share stories.
Comments