by Cristóbal Ramírez
The forests here in this part of northern Spain are lovely and verdant, but they also exude an aura of mystery – and not just because of the sounds of the animals and the wind in the trees. Up in the north of the of Spain’s ethnically Basque autonomous community of Navarre, near the French border, the shire of Xareta is home to a town called Zugarramurdi, an hour’s drive from San Sebastián and just slightly more than that from Pamplona. Once upon a time, it was a hotbed of w
