Day 1 — Kathmandu to Chame
The alarm went off before sunrise, and I remember thinking, not for the first time, that every big trek in Nepal seems to start in the dark. Our guide met us at the hotel just after six, and within twenty minutes Kathmandu's chaos was already behind us — the honking, the dust, the tangle of wires over every street replaced by the slower rhythm of the Prithvi Highway.
The drive itself is a full day's commitment. We passed through Dumre, followed the Marsyangdi River for h
