One of my earliest memories of Spain – lo, these many years ago – was jumping a high school trip in Andalusia to visit (with permission of all concerned, of course) a pen pal in a somewhat isolated, provincial backwater – but one filled with venerable Renaissance architecture. And returning a couple of times as a somewhat more, er, jaded adult, I couldn’t even remember that long-ago girl’s name, but was struck by how impressive I still found this city and its province. It’s truly one of Spain’s
