by Cristóbal Ramírez
In the shadow of Mount Vesuvius, Italy’s third largest city, ancient queen of the Mezzogiorno, the country’s south, is a glorious contradiction. The face of Napoli is luminous, yet sports plenty of wrinkles, scars, and squalour. History, good eating (hey, pizza was invented here), and high culture – right alongside the sinister machinations of the notorious Camorra, as the local mafia is known. Where the traffic is chaotic (even more than in Rome, some claim) and the loca
