Glædelig Jul! In the capital of Denmark – once home to 19th-century writer Hans Christian Anderson – the holiday atmosphere is like something out of one of his fairy tales. With the streets and buildings decked out in lights and Christmas decorations, and sidewalk stands and windows hawking roast chestnuts, mulled wine, and hot cocoa – and all of it often blanketed with a frosting of snow – this time of year there are few spots in Europe more ‘Yuletidey’-feeling than Copenhagen