First off, the current conflict between the United States, Israel, and Iran has spilled over into various other countries in the Middle East, and Iraq is one of them, particularly in capital Baghdad, parts of which have been targeted in retaliatory strikes by Iran and militias aligned with it. But while it´s definitely unsafe to travel to at the moment, once the crisis passes, this is a country that any curious traveler—particularly one interested in history—should visit. Because Iraq isn´t just another country—it's the cradle of human civilization, where writing, law, agriculture, and urban life were invented, and where empires rose and fell for millennia before most of the rest of the world had built its first town. It's not an easy place to visit, but for those willing to engage with its complexity, it offers an experience unmatched anywhere on earth.
To give a sense of size, we're talking about California and Utah combined, or more than one and a half times as large as the entire United Kingdom. Its population of 43 to 45 million is young, diverse and growing. Geographically it ranges from the mountain landscapes of Kurdistan in the north to the extraordinary Mesopotamian marshlands of the south, with vast desert plains in between.
And its society is multilayered. Religiously it´s predominantly Arab Muslim, with a Shia majority in the centre and south and a significant Sunni population in the west and north. The Kurdish people dominate the north with their own semi-autonomous government, while smaller communities of Christians, Yazidis, Turkmen and Mandaeans add further texture. At the heart of daily life are family, hospitality and tribal tradition. The concept of al-diyafa—the sacred duty of hospitality to guests—isn´t just a quaint custom but a living obligation. Visitors are routinely invited into homes for tea and meals by people they have only just met, and there is a palpable desire among Iraqis to show the world a side of their country that rarely makes the headlines.
A Bit of History
To understand Iraq is to understand the foundations of civilization itself. The land between the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers—ancient Mesopotamia—gave the world its first cities, first written language, first legal code and first organized agriculture. Baghdad became one of the greatest cities on earth during the Islamic Golden Age of the 8th to 13th centuries, the intellectual and cultural capital of the world, until the catastrophic Mongol invasion of 1258 ended that era permanently. Centuries of Ottoman Turkish rule, a British mandate from 1917 to 1932, followed by a kingdom until 1958 and finally a republic, mostly under the socialist Ba´ath Party. The Saddam Hussein era from 1979 to 2003 brought brutal repression; wars with Iran and Kuwait; and international isolation, brought to an end by the 2003 invasion. This, however, unleashed years of instability, and the occupation of the so-called Islamic State (aka ISIS and Daesh) from 2014 to 2017 caused appalling human suffering and the deliberate destruction of irreplaceable heritage.
Since 2017, Iraq has been on a genuine if gradual path of recovery, and tourism has been growing in recent years. Ten million religious tourists—mostly from Iran and Turkey—already come each year to visit Islamic sites in cities like Karbala and Najaf, and of late the government has also become serious about making tourism a central pillar of its attempt to diversify away from oil. The country was in 2025 it was designated the Arab Capital of Tourism, and the goal is to increase national GDP from tourism to ten percent from around three percent at present. Obviously, the current conflict is imposing a pause in these plans, and other obstacles include an improving but still insufficient tourism infrastructure; lack of maintenance of important heritage sites (apart from the ancient city of Bablyon, about which more below); international perceptions of insecurity; and climate change making already hot local summers even hotter. Will Iraq eventually get there? As they say, only time will tell.
Navigating Iraq in 2026
In the meantime, getting around requires planning. International flights serve Baghdad as well as Erbil, Basra, and Sulaymaniyah. Taxis and ride-sharing apps operate in major cities. Private drivers and local guides are strongly recommended and represent the most practical approach for most visitors. There is no functioning tourist rail network. Organized tour groups remain the easiest entry point for first-time visitors.
English is spoken in hotels, airports and major tourist sites, and the Kurdistan region has reasonably good English proficiency. Outside tourist environments, some Arabic or Kurdish becomes essential, so a downloaded offline Arabic translation app and learning even just a handful of basic Arabic phrases can make an enormous practical and social difference.
Safety varies dramatically by region. The Kurdistan region is generally safe and tourist-friendly. Baghdad has improved significantly and is manageable with care. Najaf, Karbala and Basra are navigable with appropriate precautions. Mosul is still recovering but increasingly visited. Border areas with Syria should be avoided. Always check your government's current travel advisory before visiting.
And now for its half dozen essential destinations:
Home to eight to nine million people, the national capital is a vast, chaotic and surprisingly vibrant megacity that´s also visibly rebuilding and reimagining itself. Founded in 762 by the Abbasid caliph al-Mansur, it became the heart of the Islamic Golden Age, and several landmarks still reflect that legacy. The Abbasid Palace (late 12th–early 13th century) is one of the oldest surviving buildings, with elegant brick arches and courtyards heavily reconstructed between the 1930s and 1970s. Nearby, the Al-Mustansiriya Madrasa (founded in 1227) was once a leading center of learning and like the palace a notable example of medieval Islamic architecture. Other notable landmarks include the Shiite Al-Kadhimiya (aka Al-Kazimiyya) Mosque with its gleaming golden domes, dating back to 762 and overhauled in the early 16th century; the stiking Al-Shaheed Monument (aka Martyrs Memorial), built in 1983 to commemorate Iraqi soldiers killed in the Iran-Iraq War (1980-1988); and the 669-foot Baghdad Tower, completed in 1994, with a revolving restaurant and observation deck affording sweeping views over the city.
Also don't miss the Iraqi Museum—one of the world´s great museums, marking its centenary this year and housing staggering collections of Mesopotamian, Assyrian and Babylonian artifacts—and the Baghdadi Museum, which present detailed dioramas to depict the capital through the ages.
For atmosphere, Al-Mutanabbi Street is a must, especially on Fridays, when booksellers and intellectuals gather in a tradition stretching back centuries. Nearby, Al-Rashid Street (top), laid out in the early 20th century during the late Ottoman period and continued building through the 1940s, was once the city’s grand boulevard, lined with cinemas, cafés, and shops; still offers glimpses of Baghdad’s more cosmopolitan past; and has recently undergone significant renovation. Get a taste of market likfe at the Shorja Bazaar and Souk Al-Sarai. And riverside walks along the Tigris River Promenade and green spaces like Al-Zawraa Park let visitors experience a more relaxed side of the city.
Accommodation ranges from basic local hotels and guesthouses to mid-range business properties, as well as upscale international-standard hotels such as the Babylon Rotana Hotel and the Al-Rasheed Hotel.
Just outside the modern city of Al Hillah, about an hour south of Baghdad, this UNESCO World Heritage Site marks the site of one of the most evocative names in human history. Founded as a major city around 1900 BCE and reaching its peak under the Neo-Babylonian Empire in the 7th–6th centuries BCE before declining after its conquest by the Persians in 539 BCE, Babylon was a center of power, culture, and innovation in the ancient world. It´s associated with achievements like early legal codes, monumental architecture, and the legendary Hanging Gardens. Its most famous ruler, Nebuchadnezzar II (reigned c. 605–562 BCE), transformed the city into a showpiece of imperial ambition, commissioning grand projects such as the Processional Way and the iconic Ishtar Gate.
Today the archaeological site preserves the outlines of this extraordinary past—the Processional Way, palace foundations, and fragments of massive walls—though it requires imagination as much as observation. Other parts were extensively reconstructed in the late 20th century, with several buildings and walls rebuilt, most notably under the régime of Saddam Hussein (these reconstructions were controversial, as they often used modern materials and sometimes overlaid or obscured original remains, sparking debate among archaeologists about authenticity and preservation). Even so, walking these grounds—where empires rose and ideas spread across the ancient world—is a genuinely profound experience. Nearby Al Hillah, a pleasant riverside city of around 456,000 people, makes an easy base or day trip from Baghdad. The juxtaposition of legendary antiquity with everyday Iraqi life is part of what makes the destination so compelling, offering both historical depth and a vivid sense of continuity.
Six hours south of Baghdad, at the head of the Arabian Gulf, Iraq’s second city and its only major port is a sprawling, water-laced metropolis of three to four million people with a character entirely its own. This is the legendary home of Sinbad the Sailor, set near the confluence of the Tigris with the Euphrates River as they form the Shatt al-Arab waterway. Historically crisscrossed by canals and lined with date palms, Basra was once compared to Venice, and while many of those waterways have deteriorated, the sense of a city shaped by water remains, while districts with traditional shanashil houses (distinctive wooden balconies with intricate latticework) hint at the city’s late Ottoman and early 20th-century mercantile prosperity.
Founded as a military encampment in 636, its highlights include the Basra Museum, Basra Museum, housed in a former Saddam Hussein lakeside palace, providing an excellent overview of southern Iraq’s history, from ancient Mesopotamia through the Islamic era; the early-medieval Old Mosque (aka Imam Ali Mosque), the first one built outside the Arabian peninsula, in the early days of the camp; the Old Basra quarter with its shanasheel architecture notable for its carved wooden balconies and window screens (you can visit one of these, now the Al-Hasoun Museum and Restaurant, to have a delicious traditional meal and check out the traditional furnishings/decor as well as the owner´s eclectic collection of bric-a-brac). Others worth noting: the Iraqi Museum of Basra; the home of a famous local poet, Badr Shakir al-Sayyab (1926-1964), now a cultural centre; various bazaars such as the Old Souq, the Indian Market (Amogaiz), the Hanna-Sheikh Bazaar, the bird market, and the fish market; and the old Corniche along the Shatt al-Arab, popular for strolling and which retains a faded grandeur dating largely to the mid-20th century, when Basra was a wealthy, outward-looking port city enriched by trade and early oil revenues. Once lined with elegant promenades, hotels, and civic buildings, it still offers evocative views over the river, especially at sunset. Beyond the city, you can take a tour to the Mesopotamian Marshes a UNESCO World Heritage Site which is among Iraq’s most extraordinary landscapes, where the Marsh Arabs maintain a way of life centered on reed-built islands, fishing, and water buffalo herding that stretches back thousands of years.
In terms of safety, Basra is generally calmer than many parts of Iraq but remains complex. While large-scale violence is rare, the city is still affected by militia presence, political tensions, and occasional unrest, and infrastructure can be inconsistent. Independent travel requires careful planning, local knowledge, and trusted contacts, particularly for movement outside central areas or into the marshes. But for those prepared to navigate these challenges, Basra offers a deeply atmospheric and historically rich perspective on Iraq that is difficult to find anywhere else.
Also known by its Kurdish name Hawler, the capital of the essentially autonomous Kurdistan region lies about five to six hours north of Baghdad and is, in many ways, the most accessible entry point into Iraq. With a population of around 1.4 million, Erbil feels markedly different from much of the country—clean, modern, relatively safe, and surprisingly cosmopolitan, with a mix of new development and historic character. The city’s expanding skyline, café culture, and international presence reflect its role as both a political center and a growing hub for business and diplomacy. Erbil also has the best tourism infrastructure in Iraq, with international hotels, good transport links, and widespread English proficiency, making it the easiest and most comfortable base for exploring the country.
Looming above the city, the Erbil Citadel is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that has been continuously inhabited for over 6,000 years, making it one of the oldest occupied settlements on earth. You can wander the tiny winding lanes and visit carefully resroted traditional homes as well as a museum and visitors´ center. At its base, the Qaysari Bazaar provides a lively, atmospheric glimpse into daily life, filled with traditional shops, spices, and textiles. Cultural context is further enriched by the Erbil Civilization Museum, which showcases artifacts spanning thousands of years, and the Syriac Heritage Museum in the nearby Ankawa district, highlighting the region’s Assyrian and Christian heritage. Finally, just outside the city, Shanidar Cave is known for its important Neanderthal discoveries.
Elsewhere, Erbil reveals a more contemporary and everyday rhythm. The expansive Sami Abdulrahman Park—one of the largest urban green spaces in the Middle East—offers lakes, gardens, and long promenades popular with families in the evenings, while the elegant Jalil Khayat Mosque stands out as the city’s most impressive modern landmark (completed in 2007), its Ottoman-inspired domes and minarets visible from across the skyline. Shopping malls, restaurants, and tea houses add to a sense of normalcy and comfort that can feel surprising given the wider regional context.
At the same time, Erbil serves as a gateway to the wider landscapes of Iraqi Kurdistan, where rugged mountains, waterfalls, and historic towns lie within a few hours’ drive. Popular excursions include the hill town of Shaqlawa and the dramatic scenery around Rawanduz—both striking contrasts to the plains around the city. This combination of deep history, relative stability, and access to natural beauty is what makes Erbil not just a convenient entry point, but one of Iraq’s most rewarding destinations in its own right.
About a two-hour drive southwest of Baghdad this city of 691,000 (also spelled Kerbala) is one of the holiest in Shia Islam, and so its population of around 700,000 that swells dramatically during pilgrimage periods. Karbala was founded in 690 CE, ten years after the Battle of Karbala took place here, between the forces of the Umayyad caliphate and a small army led by Husayn ibn Ali, the grandson of the prophet Mohammed, revered as the third Imam in Shia tradition. Husayn and his followers were killed - leading to the infamous schism between Sunni and Shina Islam that we have today. Husayn is still seen as a symbol of resistance against injustice, with his death at Karbala remaining one of the most defining events in Islamic history. Then over time, the town grew into a major center of devotion, scholarship, and pilgrimage.
At the heart of it all stands the magnificent Imam Husayn Shrine (top), built over his burial spot and expanded over many centuries. Nearby is the equally important Al-Abbas Shrine, dedicated to Husayn’s half-brother Abbas. Both are architecturally striking, with golden domes, intricate tilework, vast courtyards, and richly decorated interiors, forming the focal point of Karbala’s spiritual and urban life. The space between them, known as Bayn al-Haramayn, fills with pilgrims day and night, especially during major events such as Arbaeen, when millions gather. There are also small museums associated with the shrines, displaying manuscripts, historical artifacts, and items connected to the events of 680 CE.
Fortunately, Karbala is well equipped to handle its constant influx of visitors, with a wide range of hotels, guesthouses, and restaurants, along with organized transport links from Baghdad and other Iraqi cities. Infrastructure is heavily oriented toward pilgrimage, with extensive security, pedestrianized zones around the shrines, and services catering to large crowds. And in terms of security, Karbala is generally considered stable compared to many parts of Iraq, particularly within the shrine districts, which are tightly controlled and heavily guarded.
The bottom line is that it´s not as widely interesting a destination as others in Iraq, but for those interested in religious history and contemporary Islamic culture, it can afford an intense and deeply meaningful experience. One major caveat, though: unless you want to experience the intensity of the religious pilgrimage periods (which also brings huge challenges like hotels booked months in advance; closed or restricted streets, and general overcrowding and logistical nightmares), you´ll want to research when these pilgrimages occur (the dates shift each year). But as a general rule December through March are quieter (as well as cooler), as are April and May (though hotter).
Five to six hours north of Baghdad, one of the most moving and memorable destinations in the Middle East (pop. around 1.8 million) is a city defined by extraordinary resilience, where a visit means witnessing reconstruction on a historic scale. Founded in the early Islamic period in the 7th century near the ruins of ancient Nineveh (capital of the Neo-Assyrian Empire, the world´s first, which held sway from 911 to 612 BCE), Mosul grew into a major commercial and cultural center, strategically positioned on trade routes linking Mesopotamia, Anatolia, and the Levant. By the medieval period it was renowned for its textiles (the word “muslin” is often linked to the city) and for its diverse population of Arabs, Kurds, Christians, and others.
At the heart of Mosul’s identity is the Al-Nuri Mosque, originally built in 1173 by the Zengid ruler Nur ad-Din. Its famous leaning minaret, known as Al-Hadba (“the hunchback”), stood for centuries as the city’s most recognizable landmark before being destroyed by ISIS in 2017. Now being carefully reconstructed under a UNESCO-led initiative, the mosque and minaret have become global symbols of cultural recovery. Nearby, large parts of the Old City—once a dense fabric of narrow lanes and historic houses—are also gradually being restored. Another key landmark is the rebuilt Tomb of Jonah (Nabi Yunus), long revered by multiple faiths, stands on a site that also revealed significant Assyrian remains beneath it after its destruction. In the nearby mountains,
The Mosul Museum, heavily damaged during the ISIS occupation, is likewise undergoing restoration. Before its destruction, it housed one of Iraq’s most important collections of Assyrian artifacts, including monumental statues, reliefs from ancient palaces, and finds from Nineveh and surrounding sites; efforts are underway to conserve surviving pieces and rebuild the museum as a key cultural institution. On the city’s edge, the ruins of Nineveh—once one of the greatest cities of the ancient world—are being excavated and preserved, offering insight into the Neo-Assyrian Empire at its height. Also a short distance outside town, the ancient Mar Mattai Monastery, founded in the 4th century, remains one of the oldest Christian monasteries in existence, with sweeping views over the plains of Nineveh.
Mosul is still not a comfortable tourist destination in any conventional sense—security remains tight, infrastructure uneven, and visits often require coordination with local authorities or guides. But what it offers is something rarer: a place where layers of ancient history, recent tragedy, and determined recovery intersect. For those able to visit, the experience is profound, revealing not only the depth of Iraq’s past but also the resilience of its people in rebuilding one of the region’s great historic cities.
About an hour and a half south of Baghdad, this city of around 747,000 people is, like Karbala, another of Islaic world´s holiest destinations for Shia Muslims, drawing millions of pilgrims each year. Its importance dates back to the 7th century, when Ali ibn Abi Talib—cousin and son-in-law of the Prophet Muhammad and the central figure in Shia Islam—was buried here in 661 CE. Over time, Najaf developed into a major center of religious scholarship, home to one of the world´s most influential Shia seminaries (hawzas), shaping theology and politics across the region.
At the heart of the city lies the magnificent Imam Ali Shrine, whose golden dome and minarets dominate the skyline. Covered in intricate tilework and shimmering gold paint, the shrine is both an architectural masterpiece and a place of profound spiritual significance, visited by vast numbers of pilgrims daily. Surrounding it, the old city forms a dense network markets and bazaars, where the constant movement of visitors from across Iraq, Iran, and beyond creates an atmosphere that is both intense and deeply devotional.
Adjacent to Najaf is the immense Wadi Al-Salam Cemetery, one of the world´s largest cemeteries, stretching for kilometers and containing millions of graves—some dating back over a thousand years, reflecting this holy city´s central role in Shia beliefs about burial and the afterlife. Other notable landmarks include the Kufa Mosque in nearby Kufa, an important early Islamic site associated with Ali’s caliphate, and the broader religious schools and libraries that define Najaf’s intellectual life.
Najaf is also relatively well set up for visitors, with a wide range of hotels and services geared toward its enormous pilgrim economy. In terms of security, the city is generally considered one of the more stable in Iraq, with a strong security presence around religious sites, though visitors should still exercise caution and travel with local guidance. For non-pilgrims, a visit to Najaf is a powerful and immersive glimpse into one of the world´s most important centers of Islamic faith and scholarship.
Just over 20 minutes outside the city of Nasiriyah—itself about 3½ hours south of Baghdad—this archaeological site is what´s left of one of the great cities of ancient Mesopotamia. Founded around 3600 BCE and flourishing as the capital of the Neo-Sumerian Empire around 2100 BCE, Ur remained inhabited in various forms until roughly 500 CE and was a major center of trade, religion, and early urban life (it´s also traditionally considered the birthplace of the biblical patriarch Abraham, and so also attracts a certain number of Jewish, Christian, and Muslim pilgrims).
The site spreads across a wide, open desert landscape, where the outlines of a once-powerful city can still be traced. Visitors can explore the remains of royal tombs, temple platforms, and residential districts, as well as active digs where archaeologists continue to uncover new findings. The most striking feature by far is the monumental Ziggurat of Ur, a massive stepped temple platform rising about 98 feet above the surrounding plain, it dominates the site with its imposing geometry. Much of what is visible today—particularly the lower tiers and grand central staircase—has been partially reconstructed, (again, under Saddam Hussein), which helps convey the original scale but as in Babylon also raised questions about authenticity.
Alongside the ruins, the modern Ur Tourist City is an ambitious effort to develop the site for visitors. Still partly under construction, it features buildings inspired by ancient Mesopotamian architecture; a partially completed museum complex; and basic accommodation and visitor facilities, making it a modest but evolving base for exploring one of the world’s oldest urban landscapes.
For more, check out VisitIraq.com.
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