The American Eagle is the newest vessel in the American Cruise Lines fleet of small ships. Photograph courtesy American Cruise Lines
While taking a recent journey through several southeastern states, I knocked on an unmarked wood door, uttered a secret password, and my wife Fyllis and I were admitted into a throwback Prohibition-era speakeasy in the heart of Savannah, Georgia.We also took a horse-drawn carriage ride through Beaufort, South Carolina, a small, picturesque town that has served as the backdrop for more than 100 movies and television shows.
We were on a trip to history-rich Savannah, Beaufort and other towns, relaxing as we traveled aboard the American Eagle, an American Cruise Lines ship. Our eight-day voyage took us from Florida’s Amelia Island to Charleston, South Carolina, via the Intracoastal Waterway, the 3,000-mile-long stretch of rivers, canals and bays that runs from Massachusetts to Florida and then on to Texas.
The channel is so wide in some places that the marshes, sandbars and sawgrass lining the shorelines almost faded into the distance. In others, the ship slowed to a crawl as it navigated narrow, shallow sections, providing close-up views of sea gulls, pelicans and other wildlife.
While our ship often had the water to itself, we occasionally spotted a barge or other working boat, pleasure craft carrying passengers whose friendly waves we returned, and dolphin that seemed to enjoy following in our vessel’s wake.
Our ship docked at some of the South’s most charming cities and towns, and the selection of outings at each port appealed to many tastes and interests. For starters, we checked out the American Prohibition Museum in Savannah, the only one of its kind in the nation. Exhibits, dioramas and other displays bring the “Roaring Twenties” back to life in a colorful way.
Visitors enter into a street scene: A beer truck parked amid a mob of angry, sign-carrying mannequin protestors. A soundtrack broadcasts evangelist Billy Sunday railing against “king alcohol” and Savannah, “the most wicked city in the world.”
A rendering of anti-alcohol protesters greets visitors to the Prohibition Museum. Photograph by Victor Block
A portrait of August Anheuser Busch Sr., the brewing magnate, suddenly comes alive and engages in a spirited debate with the nearby picture of a female member of the Temperence League, as they argue the benefits of moderation versus prohibition. After viewing the exhibits, guests may enter the nondescript door and be immersed in the realistic setting of a 1920s speakeasy. The fully stocked bar serves libations which were popular at that time, along with popular current favorites.
In addition to a stop at the Prohibition Museum, visitors to Savannah could choose a trolley or walking tours of the city. Those who went ashore at Hilton Head Island, South Carolina had a choice of visiting alligators at a wildlife preserve or taking a dolphin-watching cruise. In Brunswick, Georgia they could visit a rice plantation which operated from 1800 until 1915, or a ride on a shrimping boat.
As that vessel’s captain hauled in a net loaded with wriggling shrimp, crabs, pufferfish and other denizens of the deep, guests could, if they wished, handle the catch before it was returned to the sea. Fyllis delighted in getting close up and personal with a baby manta ray.
Fyllis makes eye contact with a manta ray during a shrimp boat sojourn. Photograph by Victor Block
Beaufort (pronounced BYOO-fert), has a small-town atmosphere, streets lined by graceful antebellum homes and overhead canopies of Spanish moss-festooned oak trees. Hollywood’s love affair with the town began in 1914 when scenes for the film The Americans were shot there. Viewing it all from a wagon pulled by a straw hat-wearing horse named Bandit added to the ambiance.
A horse-drawn carriage ride is the perfect way to enjoy Beaufort, South Carolina. Photograph by Carrie Hanrahan/Dreamstime.com
On the last day of the cruise, Fyllis and I took a tour of Charleston’s cobblestone streets and squares. Founded in 1670, the city’s architectural style is the unique “single house,” with a narrow, one-room-width side facing the street. That design was necessary during the Colonial era, when a wall enclosed the miniscule, 62-acre town, and space was limited.
A long list of other tours also was available to passengers. In Charleston, they included a visit to the magnificent Magnolia Gardens and Plantation, founded in 1676, and Fort Sumter, where the first shots of the Civil War were fired.
The Magnolia estate is one of the oldest plantations in the South and its extensive gardens include tropical, swamp, Biblical and other areas. Photograph by Margaret619/Dreamstime.com
During time between ports, we could choose from almost around-the-clock activities available on the ship. Expert and guest lecturers described the next day’s shore excursions and delved into topics like the Music of the Civil War, the Civil War at Sea and Early American Religion.
Fun and games included bingo, trivia and arts and crafts. A Veterans Appreciation Ceremony honored passengers who had served in the military, and those traveling on their own could attend a solo travelers meetup.
Evening entertainment was equally varied, including live music, a talented ventriloquist and an equally gifted Gullah woman. She described and demonstrated the unique culture, customs and cuisine of that African American ethnic group that is centered in the coastal Southeast.
Meals aboard our American Cruise Lines vessel equaled gourmet food served in four-star restaurants. Photograph courtesy of American Cruise Lines
Of course, cruises are known for their abundant food options. Fresh-baked cookies were served twice a day; nibbles and drinks were available in the Sky Lounge, and a snack bar offered light breakfasts and lunches on the deck. The evening feast included a pre-dinner cocktail hour with more-than-ample hors d’oeuvres and peaked in the white-tablecloth dining room. The dinner menus often reflected the culture and tastes of the region through which we were traveling: crabcakes, barbecued pork chops and shrimp and grits.
Shrimp and grits was among main dinner courses related to the cuisine of areas through which our American Cruise Lines ship sailed. Photo courtesy of American Cruise Lines
The attention to detail accorded to every aspect of the dining experience became evident to me one evening as I observed Executive Chef Jason Rivera giving a pre-dinner briefing to his waitstaff. He listed the ingredients in each entrée displayed on a tray as the servers took notes, indicated if any were in short supply, answered questions and ended the session with a hearty “Good luck.”
That attitude of seeking the best possible experience for passengers pervaded every aspect of our cruise, and left us wishing it had lasted longer.
American Cruise Lines’ small ships (90 to 180 passengers) are specifically designed to navigate this country’s waterways and coastlines. They’re known for offering spacious staterooms, many of which, like ours, have floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors that lead to an outside private balcony.
You may choose from more than 50 itineraries lasting six to 61 days that visit 35 states. The ships frequently skip touristy ports in favor of smaller, often overlooked destinations. For more information, visit americancruiselines.com or call 1-800-814-6880.
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