Hungry for a spicy taste of Budapest? Go no further than Central Market and try to sort out what paprika to buy – mild, hot, hotter? Your choice. Bev Malzard reports.
Ah, Budapest, we had such a short time together. On arrival in the evening and not in top form, the best way we could connect was me looking through the picture window of my hotel room, as the river at the ‘Pest’ side from my ‘Buda’ side of the mighty Danube River. The beautiful buildings high over the bank lit up, sparkly little boats choofed along and bright lights adorned the restaurants and vessels tied to the bank. The tram rattled past my window and the town took on the life of rather giddy, faded showgirl.
I had managed to see the city emerge from the river banks as I had arrived in a stately fashion, by a grand river boat – or a suite ship – Avalon Illumination (just launched).
We had cruised from Vienna, with stops along the way – Bratislava being one, before ending the journey in Budapest.
I knew I could not do the city nor myself any service trying to see everything before I flew out that night, so it had to be one quintessential experience – Central Market Hall. How else can you feel the heartbeat of a city than by visiting a place where the locals pick and choose produce, eat, talk, meet and fastidiously check out every item before buying - or not.
Getting there was a tourist treat – jump on the tram and it takes me alongside the river through the city to jump off point. So, I’ve seen the river, the edge of the city, the restaurants and cafes riverside – looking good so far. Then cross the road and enter the monumental building – a stunner.
The building is significant and the metal roof structure is still original and covered in decorative Zsolnay tiles. There are four other markets like this in Budapest, which were all built in the same style – and an interesting fact is that all five buildings opened on the same day, on 15 February 1897.
Because of its location and size the market hall on Fővám tér was chosen to be the ‘central’ market hall by the city as opposed to the other markets ranked as ‘district’ markets. When it opened ships sailed right into the building using special docks.
Today, the Central Market Hall remains a wonderful food market, even if you don’t buy anything. Begin by counting the different brands of Paprika – the spice of life for Hungarians and the backbone of Hungarian cuisine. Hundreds of beautiful little tins decorated in folksy patterns, others with strong red and white branding, and some with fiery emblems to denote the strength – mild, hot or very hot. And there are pastes in tubes and bagged up spices ready to buy. Not only wonderful for smoky goulash and other piquant dishes but a fragrant gift to bring back home.
You’ll continue through aromatic aisles with fresh fruit and vegetables, cheeses, cured meats, fresh meats and some wonderful cake and biscuit displays. Two big fat, authentic lamingtons were spied in a line-up of cakes. The question is, where did they come from, were they kidnapped from Australia, had the emigrated? A curious conundrum indeed.
Head upstairs to a host of little food stalls and drink bars, stand up, grab a stool or enter a restaurant to taste some local fare. You have to have a plate of humble goulash and noodles before you leave the markets; tuck into the creamy, smoky stew, and forever hold Budapest in your culinary heart.
Hungry? You’ll fill up in Hungary.
Travel tips
Stay at: Intercontinental Budapest on the ‘pest’ side for wonderful views over the Danube and across to the ‘Buda’ side. http://www.budapest.intercontinental.com/
Getting there: Take Streetcars 2, 47 or 49 to Fővám tér
Opening hours:
Mondays: 6am to 5pm
Tuesday: Friday: 6am to 6pm
Saturdays: 6am to 2pm
Sundays: closed.
Insider Tip: Whet your appetite with a tour of the famous Central Market Hall, and then prepare and enjoy a Hungarian meal at Chefparade Cooking School.
Visit: www.visitbudapest.travel/activities/budapest-tours/taste-hungary/ http://visitbudapest.travel/activities/fun-things-to-do/chefparade-cooking-school/; www.bridgetours.com
More time?
Considered one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, Budapest has an extensive World Heritage collection including the banks of the River Danube, the Bud Castle Quarter, Andrassy Avenue, Hero’s Square and the Millennium Underground Railway (the second oldest metro line in the word).
And as it’s all about size – it has the world’s largest thermal cave system, the second largest synagogue and third largest Parliament building. Up to 4.5 million visitors are attracted to Budapest every year.
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