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Photos: Victor Block unless otherwise noted

In the 17th century, France´s King Henry IV decreed that a giant ditch be dug across the country connecting the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea. Before long, barges pulled by horses or people were transporting raw materials, grain, textiles and — this being France, wine — through the channel. That waterway was the first of an elaborate network of canals that eventually crisscross the countryside, passing over aqueducts and through tunnels, and navigating locks which enable them to climb up and down hills. 

I recently followed one of these routes, but the formerly no-frills working boat in which I rode, built in the 1930s, had been transformed into a luxurious floating hotel and gourmet restaurant by French Country Waterways, a U.S. company that operates luxurious passenger barges along canals in four French regions of that country. Carrying just a dozen passengers, the Nenuphar (top) rivals some multi-starred hotels in which I’ve stayed. Cherry wood paneling, brass fittings and lovely provincial furnishings set the tone. Cabins have private bathrooms and individual heat/air conditioning controls, while the lounge invites relaxing on comfortable sofas and chairs and offers a well-stocked complimentary bar.

The cuisine and wine served aboard the barge vies for admiration with the magnificent scenery through which the boat passed. Think foie gras with brioche and apple. Picture confit duck, braised red cabbage and haricot beans. The vintages paired with them represent many of the country’s wine-growing districts, often from grand cru (great growth) and premier cru (first growth) vineyards. They were chosen directly from the properties of the growers and the final list is selected during an annual tasting of estate-bottled labels. Among my favorites were a richly colored Pinot Noir from the Gevrey-Chambertin region that to my palate provided hints of ripe strawberries. Intense, oaky Meursaults, and Puligny-Montrachet, which offers suggestions of ripe citrus and florals along with nutty notes.

As the vessel moves slowly along canals, those on board can kick back relax and watch other boats pass by, as well as views of lovely rolling vineyards, lush farmlands, and charming villages. Plus it´s always interesting to head to the front deck to watch the barge navigate through one of the locks that raise or lower the water level. Because the canals climb hills and run through valleys, locks handle changes in elevation, allowing watercraft to rise up, or drop down, to the level of the next stretch of the channel. You can also step ashore at one of the locks the boat traverses and walk, or pedal a provided bicycle, to the next lock. 

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In addition, the barges stop each day to allow travelers to explore an inviting variety of attractions. The Nenuphar´s itinerary covers the Centre-Val de Loire (upper Loire) region south of Paris, where one typical stop is the town of Montargis (above), a town of 15,000. 

Due to its many canals and bridges (like the one above) — I was told it has 131 overpasses — Montargis is known as the Venice of the region, and it´s been listed as one of the most beautiful places to visit in France. Its medieval downtown area, bridges and canals are decorated with a multitude of flowers. Strolling through the town during a shore excursion, I spotted a house with “1337” above its front door — the year it was built. There are also several interesting museums to visit, as well as the town château, dating back to the 6th century.

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Then in the same region there's Sancerre, an enchanting ancient hilltop wine village (pop. 1,300). Outside of the peak summer tourist months, it’s a sleepy place similar to other small towns where few people are seen walking along its steep, narrow streets. Houses sport ancient doors, wrought iron balconies and steeply pitched roofs; its 14th-century chateau has been recently reopened to the public; and there are plenty of artisan shops and galleries to browse, as well as a wine museum which also offers tastings.  

French Country Waterways

History-rich villages, inviting vineyards, and world-class food and wines greet visitors to France with open arms. Taking in these attractions during a canal barge cruise adds a welcome way to enjoy much that the popular destination has to offer and to me the boat cruise alone is worth the (considerable) cost. Fares in 2026 for French Country Waterways cruises range from US$9,095 to $9,495 in the low season and $9,395 to $9,795 in high season (consult the web site for specific season dates). They include all of the on-board gourmet meals and fine wines, a memorable dinner at a starred Michelin Guide restaurant, around-the-clock snacks and open bar, shore excursions, and more.