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Anesa Atlic

For three years in the early 1990s, in the wake of the breakup of Yugoslavia, this small country in the Balkans was constantly in the news because of the brutal civil war it suffered between Bosniaks and Bosnian Serbs. It has been at peace since 1995, and more travelers have been discovering its myriad natural, historical, and cultural appeals. But others come for "dark tourism," a trend which involves visiting places associated with tragedy, death, or the macabre. Think war zones, concentration camps, and sites of natural disasters. And despite its current peace and prosperity - and even on track to join the European Union - with its tumultuous past, Bosnia and Herzegovina offers an authentic experience for those intrigued by this type of travel. We´ve had more than five years of deep diving into the world of dark tourism, so here´s our take on this beautiful little country´s dark history - and I promise to keep it light with a dash of humour!

Sarajevo: A City of Survival

Sarajevo, the capital, is a living museum of its wartime past. During the siege, the city was a hellish landscape of shelling, sniper fire, and shortages. But its spirit of resistance is legendary. The Sarajevo War Tunnel, also known as the Tunnel of Hope, is a must-visit. Dug under the airport runway, it was a lifeline during the siege, a symbol of indomitable will​.

Credit: Jez Timms

• Mostar: The Old Bridge Story

Mostar, famous for its stunning Old Bridge, has a darker tale. The bridge, destroyed in 1993 and rebuilt in 2004, is a poignant reminder of the Croatian Defence Council's destruction. The surrounding streets and buildings have become monuments to the city's turbulent past​.

Credit: Jill Charpia

• Srebrenica: A Memorial of Genocide

The Srebrenica-Potocari memorial complex is a sombre reminder of the Srebrenica genocide. This site is particularly important for understanding the brutalities of the Bosnian War. It's a place for reflection and remembrance, offering a stark insight into the darkest corners of human history​.

• The Haunting Legacy of Tito's Bunker

Not far from Sarajevo lies a remnant of the Cold War era—Tito's Bunker. This once-secret Bunker, built to protect Yugoslav President Josip Broz Tito during a nuclear attack, now stands as a stark reminder of the fears and tensions of the Cold War period. Delving into the depths of this massive underground complex is a chilling experience, imagining a world on the brink of nuclear disaster.

• The Scars of Trebinje

In the southern part of Herzegovina lies Trebinje, a city less frequented by dark tourists but no less significant. Here, the remnants of the war are more subtle but still palpable. The city, known for its old bridges and monasteries, carries the silent scars of the past. It serves as a solemn reminder of the region's complex history.

Credit: Mujo Hasanovic

• Herzegovina's War Hostels: Education or Exploitation?

A unique and somewhat controversial aspect of Herzegovina's dark tourism is the emergence of war hostels. Places like Sarajevo’s War Hostel offer an immersive experience, simulating wartime conditions with no electricity and artificial sounds of warfare. While some argue this is educational, others see it as exploiting the past's pain.​

The Ethical Debate

Let's address the elephant in the room - the ethics of dark tourism. There's a fine line between education and voyeurism. While locals in Herzegovina often see dark tourism as a way to tell their stories and educate visitors, some tourists may approach these sites with a 'thrill-seeking' mindset, which can be problematic. It's all about respect and understanding the gravity of these places​.

Frequently Asked Questions About Dark Tourism in Herzegovina

1. What is Dark Tourism?

• Dark Tourism involves visiting sites associated with death, tragedy, or the macabre. Herzegovina includes locations like Sarajevo, Mostar, and Srebrenica, which are significant due to their roles in recent conflicts and historical events​​​.

2. Why is Dark Tourism popular in Herzegovina?

• With its recent history of conflict, Herzegovina has sites that offer a deep dive into the realities of war and its aftermath. The popularity of such tourism is often driven by a desire to understand these complex histories and experiences​.

3. Is Dark Tourism ethical?

• This is a topic of debate. While some view it as voyeurism, others see it as an educational tool. The key is approaching these sites respectfully, seeking to understand rather than sensationalize the tragedies​​​.

4. What are some notable Dark Tourism sites in Herzegovina?

• Notable sites include the Sarajevo War Tunnel, which played a crucial role during the Siege of Sarajevo, and the Srebrenica-Potocari Memorial Complex, dedicated to the victims of the Srebrenica genocide. Mostar, known for its iconic bridge and war-torn past, is also significant​​​.

5. How do locals in Herzegovina view Dark Tourism?

• Local perspectives vary. Some see it as a way to tell their stories and educate visitors about their history, while others are concerned about the potential for exploitation and sensationalism of their past​​​.

6. Can Dark Tourism in Herzegovina be considered educational?

• Many tours and sites aim to educate visitors about the region's history, the realities of war, and the importance of remembering these events to prevent future conflicts​.

7. How has Dark Tourism impacted Herzegovina?

• It has provided economic opportunities in a region with high unemployment rates. Additionally, it helps keep the memories of the past alive, contributing to the education of locals and tourists​.

8. Are there guided tours available for these dark tourism sites?

• Yes, guided tours are available, often led by locals with personal stories and insights to share.

Conclusion

Dark tourism in Herzegovina offers a unique window into the region's turbulent past, blending education with remembrance. As travellers, we must approach these experiences with respect and empathy, understanding the fine line between learning and sensationalism.

Dark tourism in Herzegovina is not about glorifying tragedy; it's about confronting the past, understanding the present, and, perhaps, learning for the future. As a visitor, you play a role in this narrative - one of respect, contemplation, and understanding.

Remember, Herzegovina is not just about dark tourism. It's a land of incredible beauty, resilience, and rich culture. So, while you explore its darker sites, remember to appreciate the brighter sides, too!

And there you have it - a journey through Herzegovina's dark tourism sites. Trust me, it's a trip that'll stick with you. So, pack your bags, bring your empathy, and explore the shadows of history together. Happy (and respectful) travels, everyone, and as always, Travel Till You Drop!