Tucked in the Caucasus between Eastern Europe and western Asia, this country of 10.3 million - the size of the U.S. state of Maine and just a bit larger than Scotland - offers a fascinating blend of cultures, architecture, landscapes, and cuisine that feels both familiar and refreshingly different, combining Silk Road towns and caravanserais, medieval Islamic architecture, the dramatic Caucasus Mountains, Caspian Sea landscapes, mud volcanoes, and an unusually cosmopolitan capital.
Another of Azerbaijan´s most interesting aspects is its cultural identity, shaped by a long history of influences from various cultures as part of Persian, Arab, Seljuk Turkic, Mongol, Ottoman and Russian empires before it became part of the Soviet Union in the 20th century and finally gained independence in 1991 under its Communist-era boss Heydar Aliyev (who essentially bequeathed the presidency to his son Ilham, whose authoritarian regime has been in power since 2003, fueled by a booming petroleum and natural gas industry). Getting around is fairly straightforward, and English is fairly widespread in capital Baku, although more spotty in the hinterland (the Azeri language, by the way, is closely related to Turkish). One interesting point: Azerbaijan is often dubbed the “Land of Fire,” and once you´re here you’ll understand why, from naturally burning hills to ancient religious sites to modern flame-shaped skyscrapers.
And here´s a look at five of the country´s top five destinations not to miss:
In the booming capital city (pop. 2.4 million, above and top), sleek European-style boulevards sit alongside ancient mosques and caravanserais. With its narrow stone streets, the walled, UNESCO World Heritage Old City (Icherisheher) is home to historic landmarks like the evocative, largely 12th-century Maiden Tower and the elaborate 15th-century Shirvanshahs’ Palace. At the same time, there's a wealth of handsome architecture from the turn of the 20th century as well as modern buildings like the dramatic trio of Flame Towers, finished in 2013 and home to apartments, offices, and a luxury Fairmont hotel, as well as star architect Zaha Hadid´s flowing Heydat Aliyev Center (a cultural center inaugurated in 2012). Also take a relaxing evening stroll on Baku Boulevard, the 117-year-old Caspian seafront promenade; enjoy a vibrant dining, shopping, and nightlife scene, and check out museums devoted to a variety of topics, including national history; art both traditional and modern; and carpets, another Azeri specialty (this 59-year-old institution is now housed in yet another dramatic modern building, constructed in 2014 and with a silhouette mimicking a rolled-up carpet). And 17th-century Ateshgah in the Baku suburb of Surakhani, the last remaining example of the many temples erected centuries ago to honor fire, considered a divine element by Zoroastrians and other local religions. Its mystique derives from its keeping of ever-burning flames from a natural gas field underneath it (the field was eventually exhausted, and today the gas is piped in from Baku). Priests once performed rituals here, offering prayers and incense to the eternal flame. Today travelers can walk through the ancient courtyard and gaze upon the pentagonal temple. Finally, come summer, Baku´s beaches are pretty good, ranging from lively beach clubs to amenity-packed, family friendly strands to quieter stretches.
Gobustan State Historical and Cultural Reserve
This just-over-45-square-kilometre (18-sq.-mile) tract about an hour outside Baku is another UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for more than 6,000 ancient rock carvings that date back as far as 20,000 years, and there´s also a museum out here to give explain and give it context. While you´re in the area, don´t miss the nearby almost extraterrestrial landscape of "mud volcanoes" which, driven by (odorless) underground methane gas, bubble and burp.
Yanar Dag (Burning Mountain)
True to its Land of Fire moniker, Azerbaijan is famous for natural fires that burn continuously, fed by its extensive subterranean natural gas. This site a half hour from Baku is the best known, where flames rising from the hillside create a dramatic and unforgettable spectacle, especially after sunset. Some say the fires have been burning for centuries, others that they were ignited accidentally by a shepherd in the 1950s.
Also known as Sheki (and in Azeri as Şɘki), this city of 68,000, beneath the forested slopes of the Greater Caucaus Mountains in the northwest just over four hours from Baku, was founded in the 8th century BCE and over the centuries became an important stop on the Silk Road trading routes, with additional prosperity coming from its own silk industry. Shaki´s UNESCO World Heritage old town, though, dates back to the 18th century, rebuilt after much of its predecessor was largely destroyed by mudflows. Some key landmarks include the Silk Road Caravanserai, the ruins of the old castle, and the two-storey Palace of Shaki Khans with its richly decorated interiors. There are also a plethora of bazaars and workshops of craftsmen engaged in carpet weaving, metalwork, wood carving, and (still) silk production. Largely not touristy, and still very authentic.
Qəbələ in Azeri, this small, pleasant city and pine-forested region in the southern foothills of the Greater Caucasus some three hours from Baku is Azerbaijan’s main mountain-and outdoor-recreation destination. Its Tufandag Mountain Resort is known not just for skiing and snowboarding but also warm-weather cable cars up into the mountains, hiking, paragliding and other adventures. Other local allures include beautiful Nohur Lake, Yeddi Gozel ("Seven Beauties") waterfall, and in Gabala city´s historic core, the ruins of the former capital of Caucasian Albania, which was an important Silk Road settlement and trade depot; the archaeological area includes remnants of a medieval fortress and an accompanying museum.
A Rich and Flavorful Food Culture
Azerbaijan’s cuisine reflects its geographic position and history, blending Turkic, Persian, and Caucasian influences. Plov (pilaf) is one of the most popular traditional specialties, made with fragrant rice, saffron, herbs, and tender meat. Each region has its own variation, adding to the diversity of flavors. Kebabs are also widely enjoyed, often served with fresh herbs and warm bread. Another local favorite (shared with other countries) is dolmasi, grape leaves stuffed with rice and meat. Fresh salads, yogurt-based dishes, and aromatic soups are common in everyday meals. Tea culture is also deeply rooted in Azeri hospitality; visitors are often welcomed with black tea served in pear-shaped glasses, accompanied by sweets or jam. What makes the food extra special is not just the taste but the experience - meals are often shared, and hospitality plays a central role in the culture.
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