Due to its relatively small size, the Afro-Cuban presence on this island is especially notable, both in the people (some 36 percent of the population is black or mulatto) and the culture, especially in terms of language, music (many musicians are Afro-Cuban, such as members of Buena Vista Social Club and the late, great Celia Cruz), art, and religion.
This last is especially notable, as African-Catholic religious fusions like West-Africa-derived santería (aka Regla de Ocha, La Regla de Ifá, and Lucumí, with its liturgical language Yoruba) is followed by significant numbers of Cubans (and not all of them black/mulatto). The religion's babalawos (priests) are well respected, and as a visitor you'll see evidence in Havana or really most any city/town in Cuba: discreet courtyard shrines; folks dressed all in white, which means they are new initiates; and in Old Havana santería fortune tellers who captivate tourists, either by reading cowrie shells or just providing colorful photo ops. A visit to a Centro Habana alleyway called Callejón de Hamel provides a deeper experience of santería-inspired music and art, and there's a museum devoted to the religion in the Regla neighborhood, a ferry ride across the harbor from Old Havana. Santería-themed tours are available, including attending dramatic services in which attendees are possessed by orishas (gods) such as Ochún, Changó, and Babalú Ayé (anyone remember Ricky Ricardo, aka Desi Arnaz?).
Jorge de Royan
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