South Korea has come a long way, baby, in these past few decades, and may punch above its weight internationally (and even, these days, pop-culturally, thanks to its its government's strenuous promotion efforts), but as a travel destination it's still often gets relatively short shrift compared to many of its neighbors in Asia - unless maybe you're fascinated by Cold-War relics like the DMZ. But there are definitely gems sprinkled throughout this country, and for me the shiniest is the city of Gyeongju, once the peninsula's most important city... keep reading