C'era 'na vùota (once upon a time), the Mediterranean's largest island was a handsome but clannish, primitive backwater known as a stronghold of the Mafia and the Catholic Church. These days...well, admittedly there's still some of that hanging on, but this remarkable island of spectacular Greco-Roman ruins, inviting beaches, and historic towns has also put a firm foot forward into the 21st century in many ways. Not least of which, for the visitor, involving its lodging, with some of Italy's loveliest lodgings. Here are five recently experienced... keep reading