About an hour to an hour and a half by boat from Kourou, the Îles du Salut are among French Guiana’s most evocative destinations: a trio of small, volcanic islands set in bright Atlantic waters that belie their dark past—Île Royale, Île Saint-Joseph, and Île du Diable (Devil’s Island).
From 1852 to 1953, these islands formed part of one of the most notorious penal colonies in the world, where thousands of prisoners—criminals but also political detainees—were sent into exile under brutal conditions. Each island had a distinct role: Île Royale served as the administrative center and main settlement, Saint-Joseph housed solitary confinement cells designed for punishment, and Devil’s Island was reserved for political prisoners, most famously Alfred Dreyfus.
Today, the islands are peaceful, lush, and surprisingly beautiful, with palm trees, wildlife, and sweeping ocean views. Visitors typically land on Île Royale, the largest and most accessible island, where you can explore restored and crumbling prison buildings, including cell blocks (above - with a Space Centre tower in the background!), the hospital, guards’ quarters, and the former governor’s house. A small Musée du Bagne and interpretive displays help explain daily life in the penal colony, and some guided tours are available through operators from Kourou.
From Île Royale, it is often possible to walk or take short boat transfers to Île Saint-Joseph, where the eerie, roofless solitary cells remain intact. Devil’s Island itself is generally off-limits to visitors due to strong currents, though it can be viewed from nearby.
A typical visit takes six to eight hours, though to fully absorb the atmosphere a few travelers stay overnight on Île Royale in the simple guesthouse that occupies the onetime prison director’s quarters. What makes the experience so powerful is the contrast: tranquil tropical scenery set against the haunting remnants of a system once described as a “dry guillotine”—a place designed not just to punish, but to break those sent there.
Read more in my post In South America, French Guiana Is an Undersung Historical, Cultural, and Eco-gem.
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