Croatia’s cozy, welcoming capital (pop. 767,000), in the country's northwest along the Sava River and with a history dating back to the early 11th century, is often bypassed by visitors in favor of Dubrovnik and elsewhere along the Adriatic coast. But that’s a mistake, because this charming Balkan capital is full of architectural charm as well as vibrant culture and historical sights. It's divided into Gradec/Kaptol, the hilltop old upper town of cobblestone streets and gaslit squares, and Kaptol, the lower town with elegant 19th-century Habsburg-era architecture. Major musts in Gradec include the 11th-century cathedral and Trg Svetog Marka (St Mark's Square) site of the national parliament and supreme court, as well as the 13th-century Romanesque/Gothic Crkva Svetog Marka (St. Mark's Church). The Lower Town is anchored by Jelačić Trg (pictured here), while other musts include Dolac Market and Tkalčićeva Street, lined with some of Zagreb's best cafés, restaurants, and nightspots.

As for museums, highlights include the Archaeological Museum; the Nikola Tesla Technical Museum; the Zagreb City Museum; art at the Mimara Museum, the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, the Art Pavillion, and the Museum of Contemporary Art; and quirkier options like the Croatian Museum of Naïve Art, the Museum of Illusions, and the Museum of Broken Relationships (look it up lol).

All I know is that I had a ball when I visited many years ago and would love to go back. Highly recommended!

chrmoe