by Aaltje E. Van Zoelen  Quick, what are those British islands in the South Atlantic, again? Well, yes, the Falklands, of course. But ever heard ofSouth Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands, 965 miles southeast, practically at the doorstep ofAntarctica? Argentina claims these islands, too, but at present the only inhabitants are a rotating cast of mostly British scientists, explorers, administrators–and of course lots of penguins, seals, seabirds, and other hardy critters. So as our ship the Plancius approached these chilly, pristine shores, our excitement mounted... keep reading