Geoffrey Bawa is one of Sri Lanka’s most celebrated architects, a master designer who left his mark on everything from resort hotels and schools to private residences for the wealthy and even the country’s Parliament building.
His influence extended beyond Sri Lanka, with commissions from abroad, including India, leaving behind a legacy of stunning designs.
It’s not uncommon for tourists to visit Sri Lanka specifically for Bawa’s hotels, many of which are now managed and preserved by major hotel groups or the foundation overseeing his estate.
Bawa passed away in 2003, which surprised me—somehow, I had assumed he belonged to an older era.
In my mind, Geoffrey Bawa was a figure lingering from British colonial times—a man who dressed in formal Sri Lankan style, attended by servants, hosting legendary stars like Laurence Olivier and Vivien Leigh. His background was entirely different from that of the Sinhala-Buddhist majority today, and I had always imagined him as an intellectual from a bygone era, frozen in black-and-white photographs.
But when I looked at his architectural timeline, I realized that some of his most famous hotels—like Heritance Kandalama, Blue Water Hotel, and Jetwing Lighthouse—were actually built in the 1990s, toward the end of his life. It made me appreciate just how long and prolific his artistic career truly was.
Artistic Vision Over Compromise
What sets Bawa’s hotel designs apart is his unwavering artistic vision. Unlike many projects in Sri Lanka, which are often bogged down by endless compromises due to bureaucratic or social constraints, Bawa’s work stands out as refreshingly bold and unyielding.
Once, during a lecture on eco-friendly hotels by a leader in Sri Lanka’s eco-tourism industry, the speaker brought up Heritance Kandalama (formerly Kandalama Hotel), one of the country’s most famous "eco-hotels," and scoffed, "Calling that place ‘eco’ is an absolute joke—it’s laughable."
The story goes that the client, Aitken Spence, gave Bawa a helicopter and told him, "Pick any spot in Sri Lanka you like, and build your dream hotel there." He chose the lakeside near Dambulla, but the construction caused repeated environmental issues, particularly water pollution, leading to legal battles with local residents. Far from being eco-conscious at first, the project was initially anything but sustainable.
Yet Bawa refused to alter his plans, despite the backlash. And in the end, his stubborn vision resulted in a hotel that now appears seamlessly integrated into nature.
Perfectionism and Aesthetic Obsession
His private estate, Lunuganga (meaning "Salt River") in Bentota, is another testament to his meticulous nature. When designing the garden, he went to great lengths to ensure that not a single unnecessary element intruded on the view. What most people would overlook, Bawa considered a critical flaw in his artistic vision.
This aspect of his personality reminds me a bit of the Italian film director Luchino Visconti—both men demanded that nature serve art, not the other way around.
Bawa was also known for abandoning projects mid-construction if clashes arose with clients or collaborators. For those who had invested heavily in their dream homes, this must have been devastating. I’d love to read more about what exactly caused these conflicts—was it design disagreements, emotional clashes, or something else?
A Legacy That Rivals World Heritage Sites
Even from my small corner of Sri Lanka’s tourism industry, I can confidently say that the allure of Bawa’s hotels and the stories behind them are on par with the country’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
During the civil war with the LTTE, when many foreign tourists hesitated to visit Sri Lanka, there were still dedicated travelers who came solely to stay in Bawa’s hotels—Kandalama, Bentota, Galle. Among them were many Japanese guests, whose deep appreciation for Bawa left a lasting impression. Maybe it’s his obsessive attention to detail that resonates with the Japanese sensibility.
Someday, I’d like to explore how Sri Lankans themselves view Bawa—beyond the foreign admirers.
P.S. For years, I’ve wanted to write about "How do Sri Lankans feel about Bawa’s homosexuality?" but I haven’t quite organized my thoughts yet. Maybe one day I’ll tackle it properly…
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