Blogs

Photos: Victor Block unless otherwise noted

Two decades ago, my wife Fyllis and I visited the British Virgin Islands, checking out their inviting beaches, visiting historical and natural sites, and oohing and aahing at the magnificent scenery. During our recent return trip, we not only relived those experiences but also enjoyed others which make Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Angegada, Jost Van Dyke, and a dozen other of the this British overseas territory´s inhabited islands a welcoming destination for those seeking to combine a typical sun, surf and sand vacation with opportunities to delve into intriguing touches of Caribbean culture.

What’s missing in the BVI? High-rise hotels, gambling casinos, chain restaurants and the commercialism found these at many Caribbean destinations. But available in large quantity are almost vertical mountainous hills over which roads rise and fall, twist and turn (though and with many stretches that are more pothole than pavement, and the fact that vehicles drive on the left side of the road, we recommend taking taxis and tour buses rather than renting a car).  

The first places many visitors head for are beaches, and they come in sizes and amenities to meet most tastes. The west coast of Tortola, the BVI´s main island, Cane Garden Bay combines a swath of inviting sand with a wide choice of water-based activities, while Smuggler's Cove, fringed by cactus and palm trees, offers good snorkeling far from shore.

For history, start in BVI´s delightully low-key capital Road Town, where the Virgin Islands Folk Museum brims with pre-Columbian artifacts that were used by people who once inhabited the islands;  stories it tells also include tales of pirates and buccaneers who found a home base for seeking quick treasure, and British colonists who came to stay.

Nearby, the J.R. O'Neal Botanic Gardens is an oasis of tropical plants that represent the islands´different habitats. Though given the lush foliage that proliferates everywhere, even such a magnificent garden seemed almost redundant to me. 

One hidden gem which many visitors miss is the Jenesis Studio, showcasing paintings of local life, some of which also decorate a mural that stretches along a roadside wall nearby (above) - and displaying lifelike dioramas depicting life decades ago. 

Behind the building, meanwhile, is a garden of tropical herbs and medicinal plants with signs indicating what ailments each has been used to treat.

We also took time to visit three of the other inhabited islands of the 60 or so which comprise the BVI. 


Dan Nelson

Virgin Gorda

The second largest and most important BVI is home to remnants of early Spanish, African slave, and Indian settlements, but is best known for a geological formation called "the Baths" (above), a collection of large granite boulders on a beach which form a series of scenic grottoes, marvelous for wading/swimming through.

Gridge

Anegada

Fifteen miles north of Virgin Gorda, because of its coral and limestone topography, contrasting with the volcanic origin of the others, its 15 square miles are rimmed by the loveliest sparkling sand beaches and surrounded by colorful reefs and old shipwrecks which make Anegada a popular dive and snorkeling destination.


Willy Folk

Said to be named for a Dutch privateer, makes up in attractions what it lacks in size (about 3½ square miles). It's dotted by the ruins of early sugar mills and laced with early explorer trails. But the international reputation of this tiny enclave also rests upon the Soggy Dollar (above),  a nondescript though inviting beach watering hole which reputedly is the birthplace of the highly popular local beverage known as the Painkiller (BVI's Pusser's rum mixed with coconut cream and pineapple and orange juice). The name of the establishment came from the fact that, people used to dock their boats nearby, swim to shore, and pay their bar bill with wet paper money taken from their pockets.  

Those folks were early participants in an activity for which the BVI is world-famous. Along with the usual leisure pursuits expected in the Caribbean - sunning and swimming, snorkeling and diving, and much more - the British Virgin Islands are known as a virtual paradise for boaters. The first visitors came by sea and since then, the consistent trade winds, clear water and countless islands close enough to navigate by sight have combined to make the archipelago known as the sailing capital of the Caribbean. For many, the islands serve as a stopover before they rent a catamaran or sailboat and head out. Sea-faring visitors can discover tucked-away coves, deserted beaches and other attractions unavailable to landlubbers.

Even so, we highly recommend spending time on the islands. Each has its own scenic appeals, variety of activities and intriguing chapters of history to relate.

When you go. Our stay at the Wyndham Tortola Lambert Beach Resort introduced us to much that the BVI offers. The property fronts an outstanding beach and offers an inviting pool, both lined by sheltering cabanas, low-rise accommodations set amidst Caribbean foliage, and gourmet dining. Room rates begin at $220 a night.

A favorite food find was the Coconut Lounge in Road Town, which overlooks the harbor - our favorites were the coconut crusted shrimp and seafood pasta.

For more information, check out BVITourism.com.