Located in the Windward Islands of the Lesser Antilles, St. Lucia is one of the Caribbean’s great crowd-pleasers: lush, mountainous, fragrant with tropical greenery, and anchored by the spectacular twin peaks of the Pitons - in fact, it looks like the Tahiti of your dreams. With a population of around 184,000 and an area of 238 square miles, (about the size of the city of Chicago), it´s compact enough to explore comfortably in a week, yet varied enough to feel like several islands in one. You’ll find rainforest-covered hills and dramatic volcanic landscapes (those soaring Pitons are exhibit A) in the south, expansive beaches and a colonial naval base in the flatter north, and sleepy fishing villages, elegant resorts, and a generous helping of Caribbean charm in both sections.
As for history, while originally inhabited by Arawaks and Caribs, after it was first colonized – by France in 1650 – St. Lucia changed hands a number of times between France and Britain. The Brits secured final control in 1814 until independence in 1979, but French influence still lingers in surnames, place names, cuisine, and the local Creole patois (for example, “good morning” is bonjou, derived from the French bon jour, and “thank you” is mesi instead of merci). Oh, and one other French influence you cannot ignore: the importance of cacao trees and chocolate on St. Lucia.
These days St. Lucia best suits several types of travelers. Honeymooners are entranced by the romantic scenery and luxe resorts. Active travelers come for hiking, sailing, snorkeling, and volcanic mud baths. An foodies salivate over the Creole flavors and fresh seafood. It´s not the cheapest Caribbean destination around, but midrange travelers can do pretty well, too, with guesthouses, apartments, and casual beach cafés sitting alongside luxury villas and resorts. And now for several of the island’s top highlights:
The island’s scenic superstar, Soufrière is a colorful former French colonial town of around 8,000 people, sitting beneath the iconic Gros Piton (top) and Petit Piton. (the name, by the way, is French for "sulfur outlet," referring to nearby volcanic activity and the sulphur sulfur emissions – and yes, you will get a whiff of that in the air here). The town itself has a laid-back, slightly weathered charm, with a waterfront, various eateries (one of which, Orlando's, is owned and operated by the godfather of Caribbean farm-to-table fine dining, Orlando Satchell); and easy access to waterfalls, sulfur springs, snorkeling, and some of the island’s most dramatic viewpoints. At Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens & Mineral Baths check out its lush local foliage, photogenic waterfall, and have a luxurious soak. Plus you can drive to the base of both Pitons and hike up (the trails are steep, of course – the one on Gros Piton takes about 3½ to five hours round trip and is doable for reasonably fit travelers, whereas up on Petit Piton it’ s even steeper and tougher).
Castries
Out on the west coast and named after a French marquis, the capital (pop. 38,000) is a bustling harbor town, commercial center, and cruise-ship port of call. It’s lively rather than polished, with busy streets, markets, and ferries coming and going. Castries´ hub is Derek Wolcott Square (renamed in 1993 after the late Nobel prize-winning author who´s still the world´s most famous Lucian); here among other things you´ll find the Caribbean´s largest church, the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, built in 1897. Also pay a visit to the 135-year-old Castries Market for spices and crafts and 852-foot Morne Fortune hill just south of town for sweeping harbor views and colonial era buildings, fortifications, and cemeteries (including Walcott´s grave).
Rodney Bay and Gros Islet
Up near the island´s north end, Rodney Bay is the island’s modern fun zone, easygoing, convenient, and lined with marinas, beach bars, shopping plazas, restaurants, and a wide range of resorts and apartments. Nearby Reduit Beach adds a long sweep of golden sand ideal for swimming, watersports, or simply spending the afternoon with a rum punch in hand. After dark, the area comes alive with cocktail lounges, casual waterfront dining, and live music. Just up the road, the town of Gros Islet has a similar vibe and is also famous for its lively Friday night street party, where grilled seafood, loud music, and dancing spill into the streets.
Pigeon Island National Landmark
Linked by causeway to the mainland near Rodney Bay, this 44-acre islet combines history and scenery beautifully. There are a pair of sweet strands—Whistle Beach and Soldiers Bay—plus walking trails and restored British colonial military installations including Fort Rodney, built in the 18th century to keep an eye on French naval movements. These days, the only peeping being done up here is visitors gazing out at sweeping views over St. Lucia´s northwest coast. Incidentally, Pigeon Island is also the home of the St. Lucia Jazz and Arts Festival, held annually in late April/early May.
Marigot Bay
One the west coast 20 minutes from Castries and a half hour from Rodney Bay, this tiny community of just a few hundred residents has been called one of the Caribbean’s prettiest harbors, wrapped around a deep, yacht-filled inlet fringed by palms and steep green hillsides. The setting feels cinematic and secluded, with sailboats bobbing in calm water and villas tucked into the slopes above. Development is tasteful rather than flashy: boutique hotels, upscale villas, seaside restaurants, and a small handful of shops rather than large resorts. Marigot makes a lovely, tranquil base for those who prefer atmosphere, scenery, and easygoing charm over nightlife.
Fetching Beaches
St. Lucia has around 30 of them, ranging from golden crescents to volcanic dark-sand coves. Sugar Beach, near Soufrière, is the headline act, dramatically wedged between the Pitons with brilliant water and upscale amenities. The aforementioned Reduit Beach in Rodney Bay, is the island’s most popular long sandy strand—great for swimming, watersports, and easy access to restaurants and bars. And Anse Chastanet, just north of Soufrière, is more intimate and scenic, backed by lush hills and especially beloved for its superb snorkeling and diving right offshore.
Plus a Quick Word About Resorts
There are dozens of them, from middle-of-the-road to high-end luxe and intimate boutique properties to sprawling complexes with hundreds of rooms on hundreds of acres and packed with all manner of bells and whistles. They include not one but three Sandals all-inclusives (the Grande St. Lucian, Halcyon Beach, and Regency La Toc). Other stellar standouts include Anse Chastenet, Bay Gardens Beach Resort & Spa (owned by a Lucian family), Cap Maison, Coconut Bay Beach Resort, Jade Mountain (Anse Chastenet´s sister resort, above), Ladera, and Sugar Beach. At Jade and Ladera you´ll find romantic three-walled, cliffside suits looking out at the PItons and the sea, and it's hard and maybe even impossible to find anything like this anywhere else on Planet Earth.
For more info, check out StLucia.org.
Comments