Adam Smigielski
In good part because of its long civil war (from 1983 to 2009), this mostly Buddhist island nation of 22 million, located in the Indian Ocean to the southeast of India, is afflicted by overtourism yet is now attracting increasing numbers of visitors thanks to an amazing trove of sights and experiences, from coconut-palm-fringed beaches (some of which are great for surfing!); lush tea plantations; exciting wildlife-spotting safaris; a delectable cuisine; and friendly locals not jaded by tourism and are happy to offer you the warm hospitality that´s part of their culture; and ancient temples and fortresses that are testament to a history stretching back millennia.
Sri Lanka’s history begins with ancient Sinhalese kingdoms such as Anuradhapura (from the 4th century BCE) and Polonnaruwa, which developed advanced irrigation systems and embraced Buddhism. The island later saw South Indian Tamil influence and periodic invasions, leading to a long-standing cultural and ethnic duality. From the 16th century, European powers—the Portuguese, then the Dutch, and finally the British—colonized the island, with Britain unifying it as Ceylon in 1815. Sri Lanka gained independence in 1948, but post-independence tensions between Sinhalese and Tamil populations escalated into a civil war from 1983 to 2009. More recently, in 2022 a popular uprising threw off authoritarian rule of the previous régime and has since been focused on reconstruction, tourism, and economic development, while continuing to navigate political and social challenges.
Here are some of the highlights you won´t want to miss:
Colombo
Sri Lanka´s largest city (pop. 750,000, metro around around five million) blends colonial-era architecture with modern high-rises and leafy residential districts. Its vibe is energetic but relaxed, with ocean breezes, busy markets, and a growing café and nightlife scene.
For culture and history, the National Museum (founded 1877) houses royal regalia, Kandyan artifacts, and Buddhist art, while the Dutch Period Museum (in an 18th-century governor’s residence; explores Dutch colonial life through furniture, maps, and everyday objects.
Among landmarks, Viharamahadevi Park (built in 1865) is the city’s largest green space, anchored by a large Buddha statue and shaded promenades. St. Anthony’s Shrine, Kochchikade (with origins in the early 19th century; rebuilt multiple times) is a major pilgrimage site known for its white façade and devotional atmosphere. And Wolvendaal Church (1749) stands on a hill in Pettah, a classic Dutch colonial church with thick walls and historic tombstones. Then of course there are many atmospheric Buddhist temples, such as late-19th-century Gangaramaya and Seema Malaka (top), as well as early-20th-century Isipathanaramaya and Siri Vajiramaya. Conservation-minded visitors can arrange trips to Turtle Conservation Villa, a private initiative focused on hatchery protection and education.
Colombo’s dining ranges from street hoppers and kottu roti to upscale seafood and contemporary Sri Lankan fusion, and there's also a pretty buzzy nightlife, focused especially around rooftop bars, beach clubs, and hotels. And while the city’s own shoreline is better for sunsets than swimming, just a short drive south you´ll find fine beaches like Mount Lavinia and Bentota).
Check out great tour packages to Colombo at TravelTriangle.com.
Amidst the rolling, forested hills of the cool central highlands, about three hours from Colombo, this low-slung, gracious city of just over 125,000 wrapped around a scenic lake was the last capital of the Sinhalese monarchy which ruled from 542 BCE till the advent of British colonial rule in 1815. It´s still considered the country´s cultural capital, in part due to its architectural heritage. Front and center, you can visit the UNESCO World Heritage royal palace complex, site of the revered Temple of the Tooth Relic (yes, of the Buddha), dating back to 1595; there´s a museum documenting the tooth´s history and significance. Other attractions include the Royal Botanical Gardens; performances of traditional Kandyan dance; colorful markets; beautiful views over the surrounding hills; and several other interesting museums, such as the National Museum of Kandy, another devoted to tea, and yet another to world Buddhism.
Founded in 1846 and just under three hours´ drive east of Colombo, the country´s highest town (1,868 meters/6,128 feet above sea level) was once a British colonial "hill station," where the Brits decamped to escape the heat of the lowlands because of its cool and relaxing climate. It´s still fairly modest in size - with a population of around 28,000 - and provides a wonderful detox from the urban hurly-burly, with an ambiance still reminiscent of "Little England," with Tudor style houses ad bungalows, well maintained lawns, and tended hedgerows. Major attractions include Gregory Lake (above), Hakgala Botanical Gardens, Bale Bazaar, Victoria Park, and the historic local golf club and racecourse. Another charming feature is various tea plantations dotted across the rolling hills, some of which visitors can tour and learn about various aspects of traditional tea production, which is still important to Nuwara Eliya today.
In the North Central Province about five hours north of Colombo, this city of 51,000 is one of Sri Lanka´s oldest and most sacred cities, it was the island’s first capital for over a millennium (from the 4th century BCE to the 11th century CE) and remains a cornerstone of Sri Lankan Theravada Buddhist heritage. Today, it has a serene, spacious feel, with ancient ruins spread across a wide, tree-lined plain. Its vast archaeological zone is dotted with monumental stupas, monasteries, and reservoirs. Key sites include the Sri Maha Bodhi, said to be the oldest historically documented tree in the world, monasteries like Abhayagiri Vihāra, and great stupas such as Ruwanwelisaya (above) and Jetavanaramaya, once among the tallest structures on earth.
In the north center of Sri Lanka, set amidst dry plains and ancient reservoirs, this quiet town of around 20,000, a six-hour drive from Colombo, was the island’s capital from the 11th to 13th century and represents the pinnacle of Sinhalese civilization after the fall of Anuradhapura. Today, Polonnaruwa has a tranquil, almost timeless feel, with wide-open landscapes dotted by remarkably preserved ruins. Highlights include an archaeological park including the ruins of the royal palace, the Vatadage Buddhist shrine (above); the Gal Vihara, a series of serene stone Buddha figures carved into a single granite face; alongside it is the vast Parakrama Samudra, vast man-made lake created in the 12th century by linking several reservoirs and it functioning as an advanced irrigation system that supported agriculture in the dry zone in which the town is located.
Down on the island´s southwestern tip, about 2½ hours from Colombo, this historic port city with a population of a bit over 100,000 was even before the arrivals of Europeas an important trading harbor linked to Indian Ocean routes, with connections to merchants from Arabia, India, and possibly even the Roman world—though few visible structures from this early period survive. The Portuguese fortified the site in the 16th century, but it was the Dutch who a century later built the UNESCO World Heritage Galle Fort (above), a grid of streets, bastions, and walls that still defines the city. The British later took control in 1796, adding administrative buildings, churches, and elements of colonial civic life, many of which remain in use. These days Galle has a relaxed, atmospheric feel, with cobbled streets, boutique hotels, and ocean views from the ramparts. Key landmarks include the Galle Lighthouse, the Dutch Reformed Church, Galle (1755), and the National Maritime Museum, Galle, which explores Sri Lanka’s seafaring history.
Just over a half hour down the coast from Galle (and two hours from Colombo) at Sri Lanka´s southern tip, this is one of the country´s premier beach towns, lively but not party-hearty, with three beautiful, palm-fringed strands to choose from. There are plenty of water sports and snorkeling opportunities, as well as whale- and dolphin-watching tours, and the town is full of restaurants, bars, and small lodgings from luxurious to basic. There´s also an interesting snake farm in town, and nearby you can see traditional stilt fisherman; visit a couple of turtle hatcheries; climb the 137-year-old Dondra Head lighthouse; and rides the waves at Weligama, which has become something of a surfing mecca.
Getting Here/Around and Best Times to Visit
Colombo´s Bandaranaike International Airport in Colombo is the main gateway, and there are also a couple of ferry lines from India, one from Nagapattinam and Tuticorn (aka Thoothukudi) in Tamil Nadu. Once you´re here, you can travel to places by using bus and train routes. The Central bus stand is located in Colombo and it offers buses for intercity travel. The capital is hub of Sri Lanka Railways. The train services are lighter on the wallet though congestion can be an issue.
You can happily visit Sri Lanka all year round, but December to March is the high of tourist (and beach) season, hence the most crowded, and the best months to avoid crowds are May to August. In addition, there are two monsoon (rainy) seasons affecting different parts of the country at different times. The southwest monsoon (yala) from May to September affects Colombo, Galle, Bentota, and the southern/western coasts, while the northeast monsoon (maha) from November to February affects Trincomalee, Batticaloa, and the eastern/northern coasts.
Get more information at LoveSriLanka.com and check out great tour packages at TravelTriangle.com.
Comments