One of West Africa´s smaller countries – a bit more wee than Scotland and a smidge bigger than Delaware plus West Virginia – the landscape of Sierra Leone (pop. 8.9 million) is a tropical mix of rainforests and savannahs. It was originally founded by the British in 1808 as a refuge – like next-door Liberia – for freed slaves (although its curious name dates back to 1462, when explorers sailing the coast from Portugal dubbed the mountains they spotted the “Serra Leoa,” which means Lion Mountain Range in archaic Portuguese).
After 153 years as a Crown Colony, SL proceeded to have a troubled post-colonial history, including a traumatizing 11-year civil war (1991 to 2002), but for a generation has been a peaceful parliamentary democracy, even though sadly it remains one of the world´s ten most impoverished countries. Nonetheless, SL is rich in experiences for visitors, particularly in ecotourism, and here are ten standouts:
IAMCHUKSFRANKLIN
Located on a peninsula and with a population of 1.3 million, Sierra Leone´s low-slung, slightly ramshackle capital doesn´t have a lot of “sights” per se but does give off a vibrant vibe in its street life, street markets, and nightlife. And there are several worthwhile museums here, foremost of which is the National Museum, which ably presents an overview of SL´s history, heritage, and culture, and showcases quite a few interesting traditional artifacts. Other more specialized institutions include the National Railway Museum and the National Peace Museum, which teaches locals and visitors alike about the terrible civil war and how to avoid conflict in the future. Go check out the Cape Sierra Lighthouse, built in 1812, but one don´t-miss is a look at what´s left of the iconic Cotton Tree, in the middle of a roundabout next to the National Museum. More than 300 years old, it remains a symbol of heritage, freedom, and perseverance, though sadly much of it was knocked down by a storm in May 2023. If you like beaches, check out 2½-mile Lumley Beach, a 20-minute drive from downtown, which especially comes alive with locals on weekends and is a nightlife hub with its bars and eateries. And finally, about 40 minutes outside town, get a load of the monkey business at the Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary, protects nearly 100 chimps from hunters and poachers. Another nearby site worth visiting (45 minutes via speedboat) is Bunce Island, a 17th-century slave trading post – now in ruins – which are a poignant reminder of the horrors of the transatlantic slave trade, and where guided tours provide insights into its past; you can book tours from Freetown.
On the Moa River down south a five-hour drive from Freetown and just over 4½ square miles in size, Tiwai is inhabited by the Barri and Koya tribes, but its main draw is as an NGO-managed wildlife sanctuary. Fauna here includes more than 135 bird species, the rare pygmy hippo, and one of the world´s highest concentrations and diversity of primates – 11 species. Visitors can take guided rainforest walks and boat tours; visit local communities; canoe through the mangroves; swim off sandy beaches; and even stay the night at jungle lodges.
More Ecotourism in National Parks and Reserves
Apart from Tiwai, there are dozens of protected nature areas. For example, up in the remote northeast 4½ hours from Freetown, Loma Mountains National Park is a rugged, 128-square-mile expanse of lush rainforest features breathtaking views, stunning waterfalls, and great wildlife spotting, from a fabulous variety of bird species (including the rare white-necked rockfowl) to mammals most notably chimpanzees, various types of monkeys and pygmy hippos. You can also visit local tribal communities and hike up 6,391-foot Mount Bintumani – it´s a two day expedition which doesn´t need any particular expertise but does require a certain level of fitness. You can also camp overnight, but the park is relatively undeveloped, with limited infrastructure.
Another remote park called Outamba Kilimi, some nine hours from Freetown, is a 428-sq.-mi. woodland savannah also known for its diverse wildlife, also including birds (more than a hundred species) chimps, various monkeys, pygmy hippos as well as elephants, warthogs, hippopotamuses, and the rare bongo antelope. Visitors can go hiking and on canoe safaris, and simple huts are available for overnighting.
Other notable reserves: 1,350-sq-mi. Gola Rainforest National Park, Kambui Hills Forest Reserve, Kangari Hills Forest Reserve, Kuru Hills Forest Reserve, Mamunta-Mayosso Wildlife Sanctuary, and Western Area Peninsula Forest Reserve.
In pretty much all these cases, it´s advisable to book excursions with Freetown-based outfitters.
Koidu and the Diamond Mines
In the eastern interior, five hours from Freetown, this ethnically diverse city of 128,000 is rough-hewn and has limited tourism infrastructure but offers adventurous travelers an unvarnished look at local culture, with a vibrant public market, shops selling handicrafts; venues staging traditional dance performances; and landmarks such as the Koidu Clock Tower, Central Mosque and St. Andrew´s Cathedral. In the hills surrounding the city, visitors can go kayaking and canoeing on the Selwa River; go hiking through the forests; and experience rural communities of the Kissi people. But one must here is to explore the area´s diamond-mining heritage. Diamonds were first discovered here in the 1930s, and became an important source of national income, with most mining done by small local outfits manually in open pits. During the civil war, the mines were taken over by rebels and used to finance war and terror, earning them the moniker “blood” or “conflict” diamonds (you may have seen or at least heard of the 2006 movie Blood Diamond, starring Leonardo di Caprio, set here during that tumultuous time). These days you can find local guides who will take you to one of the pits where you´ll see diamong miners hard at work.
Top Beaches
Apart from Lumley in Freetown, there are several others well worth a mention along its 249 of Atlantic coastline, starting with River No. 2, some 45 minutes from Freetown, known for its wide, white sands and clear waters, and popular with both locals and visitors (especially on weekends); there are restaurants and guesthouses that cater to both. Other marvelous strands on the Freetown Peninsula within relatively easy reach of the capital include Aberdeen Beach (with more upscale hotels, eateries, and nightlife), the castaway beaches of the Banana Islands (a 90-minute drive from Freetown, then a boat ride of up to 25 minutes), also castaway Black Johnson Beach (with an eco-resort), Bureh Beach (a bit of a surfing hotspot), John Obey Beach (home to an eco-resort and restaurant), Kent Beach (two resorts), Lakka Beach (in Freetown´s southern suburbs), Tokeh Beach (lovely and on the quiet side, also with two excellent resorts), and York Beach (lesser known, so a good place to escape the weekend crowds at other beaches, with a colorful nearby village to explore and whale-watching tours from August through December).
Sierra Leone is home to 16 ethnic groups (the two largest of which are the Temne and Mende, accounting for 68 percent of the population), and a number of them welcome visitors to their villages to share their culture and activities. Some outstanding examples include the Mende villages of Tiwai Island; Temne-inhabited Rogbonko village near Makeni, a three-hour drive inland from Freetown; and mostly Mende Gola Rainforest villages such as Vaama and Lalehun (whose traditional masked-devil dance is depicted above).
For more info, check out TourismSierraLeone.com and VisitSierraLeone, org.
Comments