Santiago, Chile, South America's 'Bohemian' Capital

Santiago, Chile, South America's 'Bohemian' Capital

 


This country´s capital is a compelling blend of old European influences and contemporary bohemian life. While it hasn't attracted as many visitors as other South American capitals, Santiago is quietly emerging as an underrated gem. It's a city where Belle Époque architecture shares sidewalks with glass towers and neighborhoods full of leafy, tree-lined streets. Although its population of just over six million includes more than 40 percent of Chile's population, the city manages maintains a relaxed pace, with long lunches at outdoor cafés and unhurried walks through one of its many neighbourhoods.

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Santiago's main sights cluster around its colonial-era core. Plaza de Armas, the city's central square (above), marks the exact spot of its founding by Spanish conquistador Pedro de Valdivia in 1541, and remains the heart of the historic center. Facing it is the Metropolitan Cathedral, whose fifth and current incarnation was built between 1748 and 1906 in a Neoclassical style designed by Italian architect Joaquín Toesca. Several blocks away, the Palacio de La Moneda, originally built as a colonial mint between 1784 and 1805 (also designed by Toesca), now serves as the seat of the Chilean presidency and is famous for its daily changing-of-the-guard ceremony. Nearby, Cerro Santa Lucía, a rocky hill transformed into a landscaped public park in the 1870s, offers winding paths, an old fortress, and sweeping city views. For museums, the Chilean Museum of Pre-Columbian Art houses an outstanding collection of indigenous artifacts from across the Americas, the National History Museum (set inside the 19th-century Palacio de la Real Audiencia) traces Chile's story from the conquistadors to the 1973 coup, and the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (National Museum of Fine Arts) covers Chilean and international painting and sculpture. For panoramic views, Cerro San Cristóbal, the forested peak overlooking the city, is reachable by funicular and cable car.


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Our favourite way to get around Santiago and see as much as possible is by bike, since it's packed with bike lanes, quiet, leafy streets, and parks. For getting around cheaply, BikeSantiago, the city's public bike-share system, is worth signing up for — it offers a day pass for visitors and is generally a more affordable option than private rental shops, though it's built more for point-to-point trips (with a free-use window per ride, typically 30 minutes) than for a leisurely half-day ride. There are also some excellent cycling tours that make for a great way to get your bearings. The advantage of cycling around Santiago is that you get to take in as many of the lively streets as possible.

 

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Also, while there are plenty of large and independent art galleries in Santiago, the best way to learn about the city's culture is through its street art. Many of the most famous murals were painted in the 1970s and 80s as acts of protest against the dictatorship of Augusto Pinochet and offer insight into the city's history. Since the end of the régime in 1990, the street art scene has flourished, with new pieces appearing constantly. While nothing beats the joy of stumbling upon murals while exploring the city, a street-art tour will take you to the best pieces and explain the culture and history behind each one.

 

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Food and drink are also a big part of the trip experience, if you're anything like us — and you're in luck, because Santiago has a fantastic food scene. It isn't just the food that makes Santiago such a great destination for eating out; it's the atmosphere of each café and restaurant. Thanks to the dry climate, most cafés have outdoor seating, so you can enjoy the summer heat and people-watch while you eat. Be sure to try the refreshing local drink mote con huesillo, made from peach juice and husked wheat. For a proper foodie stop, head to the Mercado Central (above), a Victorian-era cast-iron market hall shipped over from Glasgow and opened in 1872; it's the city's shrine to Chilean seafood, with stalls selling everything from giant abalone to sea urchin, and a ring of lively restaurants serving fresh-caught fish stews and seafood empanadas. If you're looking for cafés favored by locals, try Silvestre Bistro, an unpretentious eatery with a lovely garden, tucked away in the neighborhood of Ñuñoa, serving only locally sourced ingredients.

 

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And if you have enough time to head out of Santiago on a day trip, one of the most unforgettable places to visit is the Cajón del Maipo gorge. It's only about an hour outside the city and a favorite among locals for outdoor adventures. In the warmer months, it's popular for hiking, rafting, cycling, and camping; in winter, it's excellent for skiing and snowboarding. The views are the real draw — the water runs a deep turquoise, framed by mountains and greenery.

Finally, Santiago is a great destination year-round. April is popular with travelers wanting to see the autumn colors. The winter months of June to August are great for skiing in the mountains around Santiago. October to March are the warmest months, but note that the city gets quite hot in summer.

 

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