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Story/photos by Mary Gallagher and Will A. Davis
Seven weeks ago, the eyes of the world were again on Louisville as the 141st running of the Kentucky Derby produced a winner, American Pharoah [sic] with major buzz to go on to win the first Triple Crown since 1978 - which he did in fact do.
But besides the famous racetrack where it all happens, Louisvile has many reasons to put this city on your bucket list - all no-hassle sights that will definitely pay off big dividends if you are a history, sports, news junky or arts and crafts lover. Here are the top four:
Frazier History Museum
Nothing to do with Joe Frazier, who fought legendary boxing matches with Muhammad Ali (more about Ali further down), the Frazier is actually Louisville's only history museum, covering a thousand years of history with over five thousand artifacts telling many different stories.
Created through the efforts of Owsley Brown Frazier and opened in 2004, this museum at 829 West Main Street covers the medieval period right up to contemporary Louisville history.
Period recreations at the Frazier
Walking through the front doors, you're immediately greeted by the nation's oldest surviving Civil War monument. the 32nd Indiana Monument . Then take the elevator to the third floor to begin your adventure through time. The facilities include 75,000 square feet of exhibition space over three floors, as well as two areas for interpretations, a 120-seat auditorium, a 48-seat movie theater, and various displays (including multimedia, interactive and audio-visual). The unique collection of American history artifacts will thrill just about anyone. Want to see Geronimo's bow and arrows? It's here. How about Teddy Roosevelt's "Big Stick" hunting rifle, and items once owned by "Buffalo Bill" Cody and the outlaw Jesse James. Yep, they're here too.
Geronimo's bow and arrows
I have to admit though, for me it was the incredible displays of toy soldiers and miniatures that comprise the Royal Armouries USA—a component of Britain's Royal Armouries museum of arms and armor, which was my favorite discovery. The Frazier is the only museum outside Great Britain to house a collection representing the history of British arms and armor from the 11th to the 20th centuries. The Royal Armouries galleries span the entire third floor of The Frazier and provide an in-depth look at British and European history, as well as capturing the art of early arms-making.
Some of the over 10,000 miniatures at the Frazier Museum
The Frazier also has an incredible educational component for children. Last year, over 30,000 students, teachers and families passed thru and were delighted by many of the offerings, including guided programs, outreach and even distance learning for additional study. It's fully handicapped accessible, and has a wonderful museum store to buy a wide assortment of related items.
Glass from the sunken USS Maine.
Educational programs at the Frazier
Churchill Downs
"And they're off!" With those few words most people recognize the start of a horse race. Out of the starting gates here come beautiful thoroughbred horses trained to run - or perhaps I should say born to run. Around the oval course they streak and the familiar call of an announcer saying "And down the stretch they come" signals one of the defining moments in sport as they race for the finish line. Of course watching one of the Triple Crown races on television is wonderful and to be at the track for one or all of the three races, The Kentucky Derby, The Preakness or the Belmont Stakes has to be very exciting.
Many seniors like myself have put together a "bucket list "of things we want to do or places to travel to before we kick the aforementioned bucket. The Kentucky Derby, held on the first Saturday in May at this historic track in equally historic and beautiful Louisville was one item on mine.
However, many people don't necessarily want to experience being swamped by 200,000-plus race fans during this internationally famous race week, then even more thousands of spectators on Derby Day. But visiting Churchill Downs any other time of year is thrilling in its own right; races are run during three separate periods during the year, and all of the amenities are open even when there is no racing.
First-time visitors are always surprised that Churchill Downs is in the middle of Louisville city neighborhoods. That's because at the first Derby in 1875 this was the "country", then a wonderful city grew surrounding the track, stables and now the new high definition LED tote board not only puts the race in your lap, pilots and passengers flying into Louisville can briefly watch the race before landing if one is running. How big is the "Big Board"? Bigger than 2,200 46-inch flat-screen TVs or three NBA basketball courts!
My first visit to Churchill Downs was about ten years ago, when I had just retired, and it's still great whether on your first or 40th visit, and easy for everyone to enjoy and get around. Drive your car up to the entrance and valet park for a reasonable fee, then walk directly into a flat paved tunnel to the elevators or out to the ground level of the track. My advice is to come real early and start at the spectacular Derby Museum adjacent to the track. Make reservations for a back of the track tour via van where you'll learn all the insider secrets. Morning tours will catch the horses out training, getting bathed and your guide will point out well known jockeys, trainers and owners because this is where the real action is. You'll learn some track "lingo" too. There are several free walking tours. A Churchill Downs aficionado could spend two hours in the museum while the rest of your party can move to the track seating.
On a regular race day (not the Derby!) entrance is $1 for seniors, $3 for adults. The Derby Museum is $14 for adults, $13 for seniors. Control your betting and a full day following the "sport of kings" can be quite reasonable. The crowd is always free entertainment! There is a bounty of eating options or perhaps a friend has access to the Turf Club with its 5-star service. My companion had his first mint julep there, a southern experience he needed my help to finish. Everything at Churchill Downs is made to make the visitor comfortable, whether you have $100 or a million it is the same fun experience. The museum, seating and other features at Churchill Downs are quite accessible. If you have a special situation contact them before visiting.
Wagner's Pharmacy
Join the racing crowd and a few tourists at historic Wagner's Pharmacy, located behind the stables and across the street. Among many tasty choices is the largest and best omelet you might ever have. We were forewarned to split one and even half was a serious undertaking. Wagner's Pharmacy is still dispensing pills and meds for the equine population and the front and back of the restaurant is loaded with memorabilia from the horse racing worlds' rich, famous and well a few mere mortals such as us to meet and enjoy.
As a lover of the pugilistic endeavors, I wanted to visit the Muhammad Ali Center to take a walk down memory lane via the career of Ali, whose years residing on this planet more or less parallel my own. I followed him through his youth as Cassius Clay to the Muhammad Ali transition and then through all the years of social and cultural upheaval from the 60's and 70's , which Ali was so much a part of and influence on. It was his boxing prowess that initially impressed me, from his dazzling hand and foot speed to his size and endurance. It is almost impossible today to not recognize the Ali name in even the most remote spot on Earth. Such was and is his influence. And the Ali Center has it all for visitors to experience, learn and for many to finally appreciate the amazing story of Ali's life and times. The journey from boxer to humanitarian is for your enrichment.
Opened in 2005, the center has greeted visitors from over 100 countries and every state in the U. S. There are three levels of award winning galleries and exhibits. The sight of Ali's boyhood bicycle that he used to ride about the streets of Louisville certainly transforms one's thought's back to the time when Louisville was a hotbed of racial divide.
The boxing gloves of "The Greatest" are there along with shoes and boxing trunks, championship belts and even a full size ring. Some of the exhibits are interactive such as the "Train with Ali" ring, a full sized replica of Ali's Deer Lake Training Camp, where you can test your own boxing skills if you desire! ("Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee")
The educational programs for all ages at the Center are outstanding, and art is not forgotten as presented in the Leroy Neiman Gallery as well as the Howard L. Bingham Gallery have changing exhibits year round. The 55-foot long "Hope and Dream Wall" is a beautiful presentation of worldwide children's artwork. Three wheelchairs are available for guest use.
21C Museum Hotel
Where to stay? Located on West Main Street in the heart of downtown Louisville, you are within easy walking distance (wide new sidewalks, no hills) of many attractions and hotels such as the newish C21 Museum Hotel. A combination contemporary art museum and boutique hotel. You're welcome to walk in and tour the art-filled public areas or stop for something delicious at their restaurant Proof on Main. This hotel even has large red plastic penguins to visit in your room. Being a guest is wonderful!
For more information on visiting Louisville: www.GoToLouisville.com.
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