I´m excited to introduce you to one of the foremost gems of Croatia´s Dalmatian Coast on the beautiful Adriatic Sea: the island of Hvar. It´s true paradise that captivates visitors with its stunning landscapes, fascinating history, vibrant nightlife, and gourmet cuisine.In 2023 it placed in the top 10 of Condé Nast Traveler´s Readers´ Choice Awards, and last year it placed first on Forbes´ list of "European Island Destinations To Visit This Year," with writer Alex Ledsom writing that it´s "best suited for travellers looking to find something for everyone—great restaurants and nightlife that cater to the glitzy superyacht crowd, it has spas and wellness centres for anyone looking to recharge, and quieter types can head inland on this tiny island (population around 11,000) to explore the rustic vineyards and lavender fields."
Sp ues. with its rich history dating back to ancient times, monumental architectural achievements from the Venetian era, and stunning beaches, Hvar stands out as one of the top destinations in Split-Dalmatia County. It has two significant hubs: Hvar Town and Stari Grad, along with two smaller towns, Jelsa and Vrboska, and the quaint fishing village of Sućuraj at the island's eastern tip.
Hvar Town
Compelling History
During the summer, the island's top destination (top, with just over 4,100 permanent residents) is something of a magnet for the rich and the famous like Beyoncé, Jay-Z, and Michael Jordan. With such glamour come high prices—the centre of Hvar Town ranks among Croatia's priciest tourist destinations in the summertime. Hence many visitors prefer to visit outside the peak tourist season for a more budget-friendly experience on its cobblestone streets and lanes.
As soon as I stepped off the bus I noticed two impressive buildings. The first was the Cathedral of St. Stephen (Katedrala Svetog Stjepana), just a hundred metres from the bus station on the town´s main square, Pjaca. Most of what you see today is Renaissance and early Baroque, dating back to the 15th and 16th century, its has a shrine from the previous 14th-century Gothic church it replaced. After checking out the interior and itse religious artwork, I strolled along the waterfront promenade, where the atmosphere was fantastic and every few hundred meters, I came across a beach — some well-manicured, others in their natural rocky state, shaped by the forces of nature and sea waves — and nearby I spotted several luxury hotels. The second main monument, in the upper town, was Fortica (aka Španjola Fortress, above), built under Venetian rule in 1551 and providing sweeping views out over the town and surrounding sea. It took me 20 minutes to walk here (uphill - wear sneakers or comfortable walking shoes!), and along the way I passed through a beautiful Mediterranean park filled with plants typical of the region. As I returned to town, I explored several other monumental buildings. The late-15th-century, Renaissance-style Crkva Svetog Duha (Church of the Holy Spirit) also caught my attention. I was hoping to also see the Renaissance-Gothic, 16th-century summer residence of the illustrious 16th-century Croatian poet Hanibal Lucić, also home to the Museum of Hvar Heritage, but at the time it was closed to visitors.
Dining, Partying, and More
Start your day at Caffeine or Loco Bar, spots for a morning cup of coffee and reading newspapers or books. After coffee, take one of the small taxi boats to the nearby Paklinski Islands, where you'll find a spot on one of the small beaches and enjoy the sun and swimming in crystal-clear turquoise waters. Other beachy highlights includ Hula Hula, a rustic wooden affair a 15-minute walk from the town centre with chill-out music and beautiful sunset views, and Carpe Diem Beach Bar on the bay of Stipanska (reachable by water taxi), where in July and August you'll meet young people with whom you'll dance to the rhythm of Latin music at its famous "after-beach party"; enjoy tropical cocktails and light food, play beach volleyball, and relax in the shade of pine trees with a view of the pool and the beautiful Adriatic.
Then come sundown, Hvar Town is also the epicentre of island nightlife, and at least from June to September it becomes a town that never sleeps, with a wide selection of places to go out,including Archie´s Bar, Atelier, Kiva, and Veneranda, located within the walls of a former monastery, with a small pool and a dance floor, where you´ll groove to electronic music - and if you hang out long enough, you´ll be amazed by the view from the terrace at an unforgettable sunrise. Then of course there´s the famous Carpe Diem, like its sister beach club on its own little islet reachable by water taxi, featuring a large, greenery-adorned terrace. The buzz on the town´s streets both day and night is noticeable as early as May. July and August are for those who love crowded streets, restaurants, beaches, and parties until the early hours. (If, however, you're looking for a quieter atmosphere or prefer fewer crowds, check out Stari Grad (for more, see below), Vrboska, and Jelsa.)
Things quiet down as of mid-October, allowing plenty of time for quieter city tours and enjoying the beaches without overcrowding. This time is ideal for visitors who are less concerned about vibrant nightlife and are more interested in leisurely strolls, sipping coffee, enjoying the gastronomic offerings, and soaking in the city's ambience.
Hvar is also a must-visit destination for foodies, offering flavours that will tantalize your taste buds. Indulge in fresh seafood specialities at one of the seaside restaurants, or go wine tasting at a nearby vineyard. Hvar's culinary offerings are among the best in the world, thanks to the island's fertile soil and pristine waters.
Stari Grad
The island´s oldest settlement (as well as one of the oldest in all of Europe) - founded on the island´s northern side in 385 BCE as the Greek town of Faros - remains the most urbanized area of Hvar today, just as it was in classical times (it´s also the main ferry port, connected to Split). With a population of around 2,800, it´s packed with intriguing cultural attractions and also boasts sparkling seas and beautiful beaches. It left a lasting impression on me as a charming and well-kept destination. It's a relief that even during peak season, this place is more relaxed than other popular spots like Hvar town. Therefore, visitors seeking a peaceful vacation spot can choose Stari Grad. Of course, if you stay in Stari Grad for a few days, a day trip to Hvar town is a fantastic idea.
The first main attraction I noticed was the Šime Ljubić Palace, located on the southern side of town near the coast. Another highlight was the Castle of Petar Hektorović, one of Croatia's greatest writers. In the 16th century, this building was a fortress to defend against Turkish invasions. The Church of St. Nicholas also caught my eye—a small Renaissance building built on the remains of an older Romanesque church, inside which visitors can admire intriguing artworks like the main altar and paintings. The most monumental building in town is the Church of St. Stephen, also built in the Renaissance style.
Stari Grad´s most ancient areas are found in the outlying Starogradsko Polje (Stari Grad Plain), an agricultural area - still in use today to grow mostly grapes and olives - that´s a UNESCO World Heritage Site whose main built features are ancient stone walls and small stone shelters. You should also check out the Stari Grad Museum, which apart from an art collection, the recreation of an ancient Greek shipwreck, and a 19th-century captain´s room also houses a collection of artifacts from the Stari Grad Plain.
Boat Tours Form Split to Hvar
If you´re based in Split, you can take exclusive private tours or a day boat excursion like the famous Blue Cave And Five Islands, where you'll enjoy breathtaking views of the Adriatic Sea and prepare for an unforgettable adventure.
For more, check out VisitHvar.com.
Comments
Sounds wonderful!
There are sooo many wonderful spots on Croatia´s Dalmatian coast besides Dubrovnik, and Hvar is a perfect example. I´ve been to and of course enjoyed the Pearl of the Adriatic, but I don´t know if I´d go back today, unless it´s in the off season - overtourism has overwhelmed the place, from what I see and hear. But there are plenty of other pearls up and down the coast, and I hope to explore more of them in the coming 2-3 years.