An Introduction to French Polynesia for Newbies

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Especially during the Paris Olympics concluding this weekend, this stunning archipelago of five chains of 118 islands and atolls spread over nearly 1,400 square miles of the the South Pacific, has been back in the news as the site of the Games´ surfing competition. But la Polynésie Française (Pōrīnetia Farāni in Tahitian) is known for its vivid turquoise waters, lush landscapes, and luxurious resorts. Its better-known islands such as Bora Bora (top), Moorea, and Tahiti have become bywords for exotic tropical paradise,and Tahiti in particular has been getting more than its share of attention this month as the host of the 2024 Summer Olympics´ surfing competition. And while life here has its stresses like anywhere else, it´s true that for many visitors this semi-autonomous “overseas collectivity” of France with a population of around 279,000 comes as close as anywhere else in the world to many people´s dream of a “tropical paradise.” So here´s a quick rundown:


12771880069?profile=RESIZE_710xThe Terramar Project


Tahiti

Fairly mountainous and surrounded by coral reefs, the archipelago´s largest and most populous island (with some 192,000 inhabitants) is its cultural and economic heart.  On the northwest coast, its capital Papeete (pop. just under 27,000) is, to quote Tahiti Tourism´s own website “not the prettiest of towns,” but it does have some interesting corners, including the landscaped waterfront, the cathedral, the presidential palace, the Sunday-morning Papeete market, a pearl museum, and shops/handicrafts markets for jewelry made of elegant local black pearls as well as mother of pearl. Outside town you´ll find a wealth of gorgeous waterfalls and other ecotourism opportunities in lush valleys along with black- and white-sand beaches such as Lafayette, Pointe Venus, Teahupo'o  (above, where various surfing championships as well as the current Olympics surfing events are held), and Vaiava (aka PK18).



Bora Bora

A 50-minute puddle-jumper hop from Tahiti, “the jewel of the South Seas” (above and top) has at is center the remnants of an extinct volcano: the dramatic double peaks of Mount Pahia and Mount Otemanu, the latter of which soars to 2,385 feet (727 meters). Apart from these iconic views, Bora Bora is renowned for its luxurious over-water bungalows (although there´s also a fairly wide range of accommodations available, including relatively inexpensive guesthouses and pensions), and pretty much its only settlement is Vaitapé (pop. around 5,000).


12772041301?profile=RESIZE_710xDANIEL JULIE

Moorea

Even easier to get to from Tahiti – just an hour by car/ferry – this 52-square-mile (134-sq.-kilometer) isle is known for its jagged volcanic mountains, sandy beaches, and being more affordable and less touristy. It’s also ideal for adventure activities like hiking, snorkeling (including with sharks, stingrays, and sea turtles), kayaking/canoeing, and dolphin/whale  watching. Its main town is Pao Pao-Maharepa (pop. 4,200).


12772061690?profile=RESIZE_710xDerek Keats



Rangiroa

Part of the Tuamotu Archipelago (consisting of some 80 islands and atolls) one of the world’s largest atolls – covering 31 sq. mi. (80km²) is also just under an hour by air from Tahiti. It´s known as a mecca for scuba diving and snorkeling, thanks to  its vast lagoon – dubbed an “aquarium” and home to rich marine life including dolphins, manta rays, and countless species of tropical fish. The chief settlement is Avatoru, in the atoll's northwest, with around 700 residents.

 


Fakarava

Also in the Tuamotus, the archipelago´s second largest atoll is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve renowned for its pristine ecosystems and exceptional diving spots, particularly Shark's Hole, filled with a diverse range of shark species. Fakarava´s land area adds up to a mere nine sq. mi. (24km²) and it has fewer than 900 inhabitants, mostly in the main village Rotoava.

 

12773113861?profile=RESIZE_710xSur la route


Raiatea
and
Taha'a


A 20-minute flight from Bora Bora, this pair of islands share a lagoon but contrast markedly. With a rugged landscape, Raiatea is a center of Polynesian history and culture (indeed, it´s considered the culture´s birthplace, and the source of migration to places like Hawaii and New Zealand), with a capital called Uturoa (pop.3,700) and sacred sites such as UNESCO World Heritage Taputapuatea with its stone plazas (above). Meanwhile, lower slung, much lower key Taha'a is famous for its vanilla plantations. Both, of course, also offer some amazing beaches as well as adventure and ecotourism.



Huahine

Out in the Society Islands chain, another stronghold of traditional Polynesian culture, kept alive by its population of around 6,300 scattered among eight villages, Huahine often dubbed the "Garden Island" and even “Garden of Eden” due to its lush landscapes including dense tropical forests, with its fetching Fare Beach, in the island´s eponymous main village. Very affordable, lightly touristed, and extremely laid back and authentic, Huahine is a 40-minute flight from Tahiti, and just 20 to 35 minutes from Bora Bora, Raiatea, and Moorea.




Marquesas Islands

Speaking of authentic, it doesn´t get more so than another of French Polynesia´s five island chains. These rugged 15 are among the world´s most remote, located up in the territory´s far northeast corner, a three-hour flight from Tahiti, and they even speak a Polynesian language unintelligible to speakers of Tahitian.  The light tourism the Marquesas do receive concentrated mostly on the two islands with air service, Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa. Dramatic landscapes including towering cliffs, spectacular waterfalls, and dreamy beaches. On the cultural side, there´s community tourism, Polynesian archaeological sites, and – oh, yes, the house-museum of painter Paul Gauguin, who lived here in the early 1890s.

 

 

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  • Bora Bora and Tahiti have always been a dream of mine!

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