Photos: Victor Block
My husband and I are travel writers. Which means when we get to a destination, we explore every aspect, constantly seeking out stories. Until we got to Tortola in the British Virgin Islands. That didn’t happen. And it was almost like — dare I say the word? — a vacation. But let’s back up a bit.
We are a lot older than our last trip thirty years ago when my husband had the temerity to actually hazard driving. To put the roads in context, they’re dangerous and death-defying. We weren’t trying that again. But to give them their due, as you drive around the harrowing roads (with someone else driving), sometimes the fear subsides sufficiently to ooh and ahh around every turn at yet another spectacular view — clichés abound — and yes, more so on Tortola than other Caribbean islands. It's not unusual to hear someone say, "Don't bother craning your neck — it's just another magnificent view."
So this time we were greatly limited in our usual practice of exploring every nook and cranny. This time, no crannies. So other options. A guided island tour; a ferry to Jost Van Dyke island; a lobster fest on the island of Anegada. But we still had 10 days left and we were stranded. So we gave ourselves permission to enjoy the hotel beach and pool, something we’ve never had time for before.
Lambert Beach at the Wyndham Hotel in Tortola was a special place to while away hours. Photo by Victor Block
WHILE THE ROADS IN TORTOLA MAY SEEM HAZARDOUS, THERE’S A THRILLING VIEW OR BREATH-TAKING SITE AROUND EVERY BEND AND TURN IN THE ROAD
So, yes, the beach is pristine, the azure sea inviting, the canopy trees enveloping, the chaise unimaginably relaxing. The reggae music in the background is toe-tapping enticing. And I haven't even had my first Painkiller yet — more on that later. I lay cocooned trying to visualize all the other island attractions I've yet to discover. I'm just not sure I want to. Fortunately, I pretty much wasn’t able to.
Later, sitting on my hotel balcony, another rum drink in hand and listening to the madding cacophony of coqui tree frogs singing their nightly repertoire, I couldn't be further away from the ambiance of my usual city life. I was very okay with that.
Sunning by our pool was a whole new adventure for us in BVI’s Tortola. Photo by Victor Block
Although during certain times of year, swimming is discouraged on Tortola due to unusually powerful undertows, beaches still reign supreme on the island. There are beaches for snorkeling, some for diving, others surfing, secluded spots for quiet reflection, others attract the partying crowd. The BVI, comprised of 60 islands and cays with six inhabited, is also the "Sailing Capital of the World."
Tortola Island, in the British Virgin Islands, is known as the sailing capital of the world. Photo by Kevin Oke/Dreamstime.com
One getaway we allowed ourselves was a short ferry ride to Jost Van Dyke, BVI’s smallest inhabited island. White Bay, home of the infamous Soggy Dollar Bar, lives up to its name. So does the Soggy Dollar. Rumor has it that coming off the boats — the only mode of transportation to the island – sailors’ money would get wet on the approach. The bar — home to the original Painkiller (we're still getting to that) — was willing to accept their mangled money — i.e., their soggy dollars....
THE SOGGY DOLLAR BAR IN JOST VAN DYKE ISLAND IN THE BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS IS THE ORIGINAL HOME OF THE LUSCIOUS PAINKILLER, THE BVI’S SIGNATURE RUM DRINK
The Path to Painkillers is a welcome sign to visitors at The Soggy Dollar on Jost Van Dyke island in the BVI. Photo by Victor Block
People come for the express purpose of having a good time — and are determined to do so. Painkillers help. These magical drinks — Pusser's rum (and only Pusser's rum) with coconut cream and fruit juice — were first created at the bar in the 1970s and has since become the signature drink throughout the BVI.
Because of high tides, swimming on Tortola is sometimes discouraged but the water on Jost Van Dyke is calm and inviting. I was so afraid I was going to go home and have to admit I had spent two weeks in Tortola without going into the ocean. Thank you, Jost Van Dyke!
Calm waters prevail on the beaches of Jost Van Dyke Island in the BVI. Photo by Kevin Oke/Dreamstime.com
Rejuvenated by a swim, we headed out to the second most famous bar on the island — Foxy's, part of a whole even-more commercial open-air market. It makes Soggy Dollar look like a laid-back neighborhood hangout. A large mural dominates the bar area.
A mural at Foxy’s bar on Jost Van Dyke island commemorates the scene. Photo by Victor Block
But most of my unknown comrades were there for the atmosphere, loud music and a bar covered with pennants, hats, assorted license plates and dollar bills hanging precariously. With every corner covered, it's a lot to take in. Foxy Callwood, who opened the bar in 1968, is a man of many stories which he is more than happy to share and share....
THE J.R. O’NEAL BOTANICAL GARDENS IN ROAD TOWN, TORTOLA IS AN ENVIRONMENTAL TREAT
The city center of Road Town, Tortola’s capital, offers your typical cruise ship fare so the less said the better. Not a dig at Tortola — just true of every Caribbean Island. But right in town is the J.R. O'Neal Botanical Gardens — a hidden oasis that justifies a trip to town. A labyrinth of interlocking paths engulfed in greenery — admittedly a tad redundant since the entire island blankets you in greenery.
The Botanical Gardens in Road Town, Tortola, are an enchanting way to spend an afternoon. Photo by Victor Block
Small, large, low, high and enormous, with leaves the size of surfboards that make you stop and stare. Plants are light, dark, thin, thick, mottled, marbled — a mini-rainforest in the middle of a city.
Did I mention the roosters — they're everywhere, either strutting about in their feathered finery or sparking a cringe-worthy pillow on the head during their very early morning greetings — repeated multiple time throughout the day. There’s no stopping them.
Roosters are everywhere on Tortola. Photo by Victor Block
Alas, again without a car, we returned to our pool and our beachfront. We managed to adjust very well to our new reality. We’ve never had time to read books on a working trip before. We could get used to this…
For more information, visit BVITOURISM.COM or call: 1-800-835-8530.
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