13395360656?profile=RESIZE_710xPhotos: Victor Block

Most travelers have heard of the U.S. Virgin Islands; some of the British Virgin Islands. Those familiar with the BVI usually know Tortola, and maybe even Virgin Gorda and Jost Van Dyke. But it seems that few have ever heard of Anegada. Which is a shame because it has so much to recommend it.


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For starters, the northernmost of the BVI - a mere 15 square miles and with a population of just 450, a 45-minute ferry ride from Tortola - boasts multiple beautiful beaches with soft sand whiter and azure water more inviting than the sometimes more challenging undertow-ridden surf of its more famous sister islands. As a bonus, its very drivable roads are flat and low as opposed to the windy, mountainous, death-defying roads on Tortola. Apparently that’s because Anegada is the only inhabited British Virgin Island formed from coral and limestone rather than being of volcanic origin (whatever - above my pay grade).


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And recently my husband Victor and I were privileged to visit for the 12th annual Anegada Lobster Festival, held in late November. Massive varieties of dishes that this crustacean can be transformed into abound, well beyond any traditional lobster meal. Thirteen restaurants around the island offered samples of their luscious lobster creations for $10 each. Not a good week to be a lobster.

 

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Alighting from the ferry from Tortola, we were overwhelmed by the loudest music I've ever heard, immediately alerting us to party time. Some caveats before you head out on your lobster trekking expedition. Unfortunately, getting from one restaurant to another is a challenge, so you have to either rent a car or scooter, or take a taxi around the island. And be sure to pick up the Lobster Fest Guidebook. Your mouth will start watering before you set foot on the island.

Of course, some well-known chef will be judging the two-day extravaganza. The criteria? Presentation, texture, originality, taste/flavor and overall impression. The subtleties were lost on me.

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Okay, stop number one. The Anegada Reef Hotel offered a lobster kabob with white wine reduction. I enjoyed eating it but I couldn't imagine judging it. Hell, the texture is chewy but I didn't know if that's a one, a ten, or somewhere in between.

Number two was the waterside Lobster Trap (top), whose décor and ambiance totally in keeping with its name. Fortunately, here the music by comparison more resembled a hymn and I could breathe again. In this round there's corn covered by Cajun lobster cream sauce, accompanied by a lobster, bacon, and potato bite. Tastes as good as it sounds. Random people from different tables start moving rhythmically to the music — and often to, and with, each other — gracefully using body parts I don't even know existed.

I'm already amazed at how many varieties I've had and I'm only at sample number two. Number three came at the Flash of Beauty beach bar in the form of lobster curry and conch fritters — not sure how the latter snuck in (most probably because owner Egbert fishes for both).

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Though I was reaching beyond the point of eating yet another lobster concoction and drinking yet another Painkiller — the BVI’s signature tipple, made of rum with orange and pineapple juice plus cream of coconut  — I somehow managed to persevere on both levels. By the time we got to Anegada Beach Club (also a hotel and glamping resort) for sample number four, a lobster deviled egg alongside a smoky lobster kabob and a brochette topped with — wanna guess? — more lobster. Admittedly, my eyes are glazing over and my stomach mildly protesting. 

After that, I started looking forward to crawling back to the ferry. If you have a lot of patience, a love of lobster even in unrecognizable forms, a way to negotiate the island and an effective set of ear plugs, you're in for a really good time. If you need a break from lobster overkill, there's an iguana sanctuary, a large conch shell mound, a small botanical island - and, oh yes, those beaches with whiter sand and calmer waters than Tortola.

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But then there's Tipsy Beach Bar! Here the appeal went well beyond the lobster fritters. The walls are covered with entertaining paraphernalia — "No working during drinking hours," "You bring the tequila, I'll bring the bad decisions," "Today's forecast — 100% chance of beer." I felt revitalized! Okay, just one more Painkiller.

And by the way, there were still eight more samples to go — but I never made it that far. Being an ardent fan of Maine lobster rolls, I was sorry to miss out on Anegada’s version, but there was just so much of the briny, spiny little crustaceans I could handle. Maybe next year.

 

For more information, visit BVITourism.com.

 

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  • And I appreciate you!

  • I´ve been to the BVI´s a couple of times but never made it to Anegada, so thanks for an interesting peek! And I hear you about the glazed eyes and protesting stomach - sometimes these food festivals can be too much of a good thing lol.

    • Thanks so much. Always love hearing from you!

      I have another story on Tortola/Jost Van Dyke that may not have yet been posted which hopefully you will relate to as well.

    • No worries, Fyllis, we´ll be featuring that in the coming weeks. Thanks to you and Victor for all your great contributions - we really appreciate it!

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