by Jim Gullo  I've never been one to subscribe to the hoary contention of some travel writers that "Seattle is America's most European city." Buy a gelato, or an expresso at a cozy little coffee shop (before this was doable in the likes of Pittsburgh or Atlanta, obviously)? Roam marketsful of fresh fish on ice and produce just off the farm? Well, sure. But the comparisons still seemed overblown. Then recently, I returned to my stomping grounds after a long absence, and found myself changing my tune...  keep reading