Yes, Mexico’s capital is famously ginormous and sprawling. But it’s also, at the end of the day, a patchwork of towns with long histories and local traditions. And there’s no better example than Coyoacán, “place of coyotes”, 10 kilometres (six miles) south of the capital’s downtown Zócalo. Here in one of the capital’s oldest neighbourhoods – it was once an Aztec village – the flavour is one of cobblestone lanes and little plazas where you can actually hear birds chirping. Even on weekends, when it fills up more with chilangos (Mexico City residents) from other areas coming in to enjoy the local atmosphere, Coyoacán remains much more... keep reading