Too many islands of Greece suffer from the effects of ‘kalimari and chips’ mass tourism. But, sometimes, you only need to take a short trip in a ferry or a kaiki to enter a different world altogether. The 29-square-mile isle of Leros is a good example. Though perhaps best known within the country for its mental hospital and to history buffs as the site of the World War II battle that was the basis for the novel and movie The Guns of Navarone, this charming under-the-radar island in the Dodecanese offers unspoiled beaches, castles, and... keep reading