After a lovely, leafy drive up the Saône River, yea, I beheld the holy of holies outside Lyon, France - a two-story building and its courtyard somewhat gaudily plastered with murals depicting the master and his most illustrious forebears, colleagues, and acolytes (but hey, not bad likenesses of Julia Child and James Beard). OK, I know, so cut to the chase: You're wondering, what'd I think? Well, when critiquing a once-in-a-lifetime experience like this, involving the iconic Paul Bocuse, one of history's most storied chefs..

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