Perhaps one of the things that most surprised me about the Galapagos is the nonchalance with which the local species still receive human visitors. To this day, the great majority of these islands is unpopulated, and in this largely pristine territory it’s mostly iguanas and sea lions who are your hosts on these shore excursions in the footsteps of Charles Darwin. In fact, a sea lion was precisely the first creature I encountered upon arrival at the island of Baltra, as it lay on the dock where seaplanes arrive from Quito and Guayaquil, trying to take a nap. Passing by to board the panga (motor launch) that would take my group toward the expedition ship Legend, it seemed sleepily unconcerned as we... keep reading